How would you describe the (performance) benefits of each of the dominant yoyo shapes: V, W, H, and O?
Hmm I guess V’s are generally used for faster, more extreme yoyos that are good at speed and horizontal.
H’s are generally used for heavier, slower, more stable yoyos.
W is a happy medium.
O’s are to satisfy the ones that hate bimetals and good yoyos. (Just kidding… not really… maybe) umm, I guess they’re better at rejections?
I think these attributes were much more common 5-10 years ago but nowadays with everyone using 7075/68 and bimetals and yoyo design just generally being better all around, I think a certain shape doesn’t have set traits and benefits compared to other shapes as prominently as it once did.
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I guess it’s a couple things
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how much does the shape naturally guide the string to the center bearing / axle? I feel most common unresponsive shapes do a good job with this minus imperial, which is not technically an unresponsive shape, so it’s not a big difference.
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how much weight is in the rims versus everywhere else?
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how much will the string rub against the interior (this is an argument against “pure” organics, as @smileypants707 noted)
Beyond that, aesthetics and hand feel of course.
To me, the O shape is aaaalllll about the feel. Combine that shape with wood and you have a yoyo that feels like a delicious dessert on a string.
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There’s been some good answers here, but I’d like to add a little bit about high-walled organic yoyos. Those usually maintain more stability during regens. You can perform regens on pretty much any yoyo, but it seems like those high walls really help a lot.
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Isn’t that about diameter more than “high walls”? Do you have any undersize throws? They’re weak for that reason.
I have a v2avocado, undersized medium walled yoyo. That thing is pretty decent at regens. Either way, you still have to learn the art of a regeneration. They’re pretty tricky
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Dude, is that thing unresponsive?
Yep, sure is. Made this one a while ago.
52.6mm … not sure that truly qualifies as undersize, it’s a bit borderline to me. TopYo photon is 50mm and it’s on the larger side of undersize. C3 token is 47mm.
niiiiiice man, that thing looks like 
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Well it seems that I may be unqualified to make this assessment.
Will you forgive me dad?
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Generally everything I say is along the lines of “you need excuses to have even more yo-yos” 
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Ill add my interpretations of each shape, but might echo what others have said as well. Keep in mind, these are only my opinions and may not reflect what the rest of yoyo community may think.
O- my favorite. Most comfy, best feeling in the hands. Least forgiving to bad technique. Will be eager to tilt with your strings are not aligned properly. Makes a better player in the long run due to higher focus needed to keep it going. All around type shape that favors comfort over stability. Usually with a higher walls that make for easier binds, at the expense of it non speedy nature. Good for regens and old school flavor. Think OneDrop’s MarkMont Classic.
V- Fast, powerful, most stable. Pointy edges make it easier to inflict a deeper cut in the event of a strike. Usually the favored style of bi-metals adding even more power and stability. The speed is nearly unlimited. Pretty stable and not in a hurry to tilt off axis when strings are misaligned. Wants to go faster. Very favored in the competition crowd. Unforgiving to your hand when the throw returns unexpectedly after a hard throw. Safety throws are most important here. Think YYR Draupnir.
W- Another All arounder. Kind of an all star in being able to sort of “do it all.” Horizontal, chill, speed, stability, comfort, it just keeps checking off the boxes. Forgiving and comfortable. A lot of W’s are very popular with most throwers. Doesn’t really excel at any one thing, but doesn’t have any real weaknesses either. Think YYF Shutter.
H- Your finger sinks into the throw on the catch. Feels powerful and connected. Usually packs in beefy rims for massive stability. May not want to go turbo speed, but no slouch either. Good for 5A. Solid catch as it thumps into your hand. Can feel like a brick sometimes, but bricks are still useful! Great for learning new tricks, or even rookies looking for their first metal. Think YYF Genesis.
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What is a “safety throw”?
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Good question!
A safety throw is a soft throw that is done the next throw after any sketchy bind. If your last bind wasnt nearly perfect, a nice little soft “safety throw” is how you clear out or test the string before committing to a stronger throw for a longer combo. This habit can prevent injury if there is a surprise knot in there and it comes up/back at you when you don’t expect it.
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Thanks for the extended explanation of my response dust 
In other words, every other throw I make…
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What’s that saying? Safety second? No first… Safety first
We’ve all been there man, you’ll get to a point if you keep at it long enough where you can actually feel the difference between a clean bind and a dirty bind. It just takes time and exposure
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Exactly right. It just takes time, and lots and lots of binds.