The 0A Thread (Fixed Axle & Modern Responsive)

I totally added both Overtinkering and the Ed playlists to the link tree under FAF2024 for yybc

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This is not a drill, I repeat, this is not a drill!!!

Spencer Berry is selling one of his Red Walters on ebay right now! Super rare colorway of an already rare yoyo. If work wasn’t so bad right now I’d be bidding!

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Love the description story from Spencer Berry himself;

" This is a dinged up red Walter from 2013.

It has dings all the way around both edges, and some along the face as well (land that UFO, baybee). I dinged it myself.

I made this yoyo in 2013, mostly in black. I ran a few gray, blue, and red ones. The reds were my least favorite, and I’d like some money, so I am selling my own red one.

I think I made five of these? I know Ed had one for a minute, and another was auctioned off by scales collective (black lives matter, still :fist:t2:). Two halves were mixed with blue halves for the superman edition, I think sonny and blake got those ones.

That only adds up to four though. Memory is transient.

Anyway, this is the last red one I personally have. I designed this yoyo, so I’ve been the only owner, which means hey those are authentic dings okay. Love dings, if you will.

I’m selling it because it doesn’t get much use any more and I haven’t had a job in a while so could use some money. If no one buys it, that’s fine too, I am asking a lot, especially for a beat up yoyo.

It was cut by one drop and blasted + anodized by the same folks who did the antiyo stuff. Also no longer doing ano work, afaik. It is type III hardcoat.

If you care about specs, this might not be for you, but here they are anyway:

54mm diameter

32mm wide

3.2mm gap

64.2grams? maybe slightly less from the dings

Dirty rubber shield bearing

snow tires

lmk if you have any questions"

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Hans Rocks Stall Flip > Hans Rocks Stall-icide

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Hey howdy! I don’t know if you found an answer to your question about lubing the bearing, but my preference is to use a thick lube like traxxas silicone grease and to keep my yo-yo really responsive. For the style I like to play, I don’t even try to go for most sleeping tricks, I focus more on having a consistently responsive yo-yo. That’s what I feel is the difference between “modern responsive” and “classic responsive”. Classic is sort of all purpose, but modern is really intended for stalls and regens (with just a little bit of sleep).

All the Things I ship from my shop get a good dose of silicone grease, but I think Toybania ships his without (so you have the option to add it if you want). You’ll probably need to try out different greases or different amounts to get something that’s just right for you. Avoid oils though.

If that info didn’t help, let me know and I can try answering again.

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That’s a fun one! I’ll have to give it a shot.

If anyone is interested in some responsive counterweight stuff, I just posted a new tutorial on Youtube for a trick called “mRNA”. It’s a pull-start DNA variation with a responsive counterweight twist.

I think the idea can also be used more broadly if you want to figure out how to do it without a counterweight.

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Half-Mutated Mindbender Stall-icide variation madness… or something like that… my fixed axle vocabulary is not strong enough to name this trick haha

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That’s the impression I got, glad to see it confirmed. Thanks Doc.

I like minimal sleep and will usually pick up a double wrapped wood axle over any responsive bearing setup.

I don’t know if 0A + counterweight has a name (or needs one), but if no one else has said it yet

0.5A

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I’ve heard people say 0.5A and Responsive Freehand before.

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I’ve JB welded the bearing in my butterfly AL and I could easily see myself pulling an EH and using only this yo-yo for a year or two! The only problem is that I keep breaking strings? Like after three days I’ll rip through it and I can’t figure out why. I used a YYF bearing that has the engraving on the outer race that I think may cause friction? Does anyone else with a locked up bearing have this issue?

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Love it!!!

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I don’t have what you are talking about but if there are engravings where the string rides and you’ve made it fixed axle (I hope I read that right) then those engravings would be continually rubbing away at the string. I can’t say for positive but I am highly suspect of that.

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That’s were I ended up as well, :crying_cat_face: I don’t really want to JB another bearing but it’s too perfect a setup not to.

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Ya i don’t have this issue. I also play a weekender with a locked bearing and several mr85 yo-yos. None of them wear the string at the loop. I can play a week of heavy play or a few weeks of lighter play on my RBC before replacing the string. And the string is still okay but starts getting pretty frayed and won’t hold tension as well. It is likely the engraving that is causing the issue. What if you tried buffing it with leather to maybe remove any burrs? I would buff it with 3M micro mesh pads. 6000 then 8000 then 10000 grit. But I have lots of those on hand.

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This is kind of what I was thinking. You likely don’t need to remove it entirely. There are likely small burrs left behind from the imprint. If you run your fingernail across it you should be able to feel it grab. If you sand or polish until it feels smooth it should help a lot. Of course, the smoother the better.

Working on these 540 varials back to trapeze. I’m finally getting them suitably consistent. Stoked to add another trick to the bag. On to the next one. It’s been almost 11 months since I started playing fixed axle. In the beginning some tricks, like these, or birds, seemed so ridiculously hard that I couldn’t imagine getting them reasonably consistent enough to attempt putting them in a combo. It’s amazing what you can achieve if you just keep trying. Things are coming together. It’s cool. Hope you’re having a great fixed axle Friday.

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Having fun with some Drew Tetz tricks. Shuvit Drop Suicide, Mach-5 Whip Flip, and that cool Makin Da Zines behind the head catch he does. Good stuff. Hope you’re having a great fixed axle Friday.

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