Excellently. Super smooth feel and response.
How did you drill out the response holes?
You don’t. The endgrain on the inside of the gap is enough to provide good response.
Interesting how that is enough to provide good response. Must have been tricky to get the gap just right.
Yeah, it’s a little tricky.
Do you just use a thin parting tool to nug down the gap to the right depth and width? I haven’t tried a single piece one yet.
Yes, I used 1/16" parting tool. I use a 1/8" to get the taper, too.
I have never found a tutorial on how to make a true one piece yoyo. I just had to try it for myself.
I’m currently testing a new method to provide good response in any of my wooden fixed axles without drilling holes.
If you try one, make sure you use a blank in spindle orientation, not cross grain.
Made a maple Harbinger and a European beech Ballsy.
These have a new tweaked response I’ve been working in to further improve reliability. It’s working really well.
Can you boomerang it?
Yes. Can’t do anything with it after that though lol.
Going to refurbish an old yoyo I made before Spinworthy days. My yoyos had a myriad of problems back then and this one exhibits them all.
- Made using a router instead of a lathe. Halves have marks on the rims from compression from the router bit bearing caused by pushing the halves too hard into it.
- Router speed and/or feed rate too low causing burn marks.
- Entire yoyo sanded with a sandpaper of a low grit.
- Poorly fitted axle
- Axle made of a wood that is too soft
- Axle glued in using too much glue, causing squeeze-out into the gap of the yoyo.
- Axle glued with a poor grade of PVA
- Axle is elliptical
- Axle is poorly cut
- Centre highlight is off centre
- Sequins in the centre highlight stacked unevenly and too high.
- Centre highlight not polished with a fine enough grade of micromesh.
I’ll post another picture of it after I’ve fixed it up.
Just browsed the whole thread, and this is some truly remarkable stuff.