The Cabal thickness is just right.
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Touché sir
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It’s would actually be thinner. Probably gave it the play characteristics they wanted!
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Made this one from an engineering grade polyester. It has a very similar density to acetal. I wanted to try something very wide and also try undercutting the rim which worked out really well. I also wanted to make the cup curvier rather than stepped like I usually do. It’s wider than it’s diameter.
Specs are 56mm x 57.6mm @69.5g.
Plays fine, but I don’t like it. Lol.
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Amazing, I think that puts it in the top handful of widest 1a yo-yos easily
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Yeah, it just may be. I really don’t like over wide yoyos, I’ve just discovered.
It was a bit of an experiment to test out the material and also how deep I can shape the cup with the new tool that I’d made recently. It worked exactly as planned.
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That very much looks like something I’d enjoy. Very good looking one that is.
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I might put it on the BST.
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Tonight, I made an acetal chuck to help me improve my turning tolerances.
I used it to re-machine the ultra wide polyester unresponsive I made and it is much better! It is lighter and virtually vibe free. In fact, it vibes less than my WA Shutter. It’s also a lot lighter at 64.5g.
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Amazing! Were the changes mostly on the outer parts? or did you trim it all the way around, inside and out?
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Ended up returning it inside and out. The problem of the first time was that the wooden chuck I made to mount it for turning the cup was not spinning accurately enough. The new acetal chuck is far superior because it is a more dimensionally stable material that isn’t hygroscopic. So it wont expand and contract anywhere near as much with atmospheric changes.
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That’s impressive, if you can make a yo-yo that wide virtually vibe free 
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That plastic I used is actually way more expensive than acetal. There will be extremely few yoyos I will make out of it.
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No such thing.
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He doesnt make ti’s. He just make his Plastic and wooden yoyos from scratch.
Hello everybody, I’ve been working on some yoyos. Kind of gearing them towards being playable right off the printer - minus the usual post print care and the flowable I used for response. Regular pads fit, but I hadn’t used flowable yet, and I figured I’d learn with these. These have no post print work done just because I haven’t had time.
The one on the left actually used SLA printing, instead of FDM. So it’s way smoother right off the printer, and more precise. Unfortunately the design tolerance was for a less precise printer and the air release gap for the bearing is ever slightly too big (which makes the string slip beside the bearing. I’ve been accumulating a lot of knowledge from the forums and discords. so thank you everyone for talking to one another. The SLA ran me about $12, and the one on the right was $2.50. If anybody wants to see I have write-ups and cad files for these. I also have another one printing now, I’ll post it sometime this week.
I brought them to nats and Andre gave his “these are actually pretty good” seal of approval.
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I really like the concept of a 3D printed yoyo. The grey one looks really nice. You should maybe use a domed nut instead of a hex nut on the axle end. It may make it a little less sharp. You will probably have to saw a little of the bolt off for it to fit.
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I’m curious… if someone was to print a yo-yo (or a spin top) on a 3D printer could you then put that yoyo or top on a lathe to clean up the roughness? Will the printed item hold together well enough?
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unless I’m mistaken, cleaning it up on a lathe was part of the process that Kyo used for his 3d-printed yoyos.
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