Does anyone have any experience removing sharp edges on bimetal yoyo’s?
You see earlier this year I got two Yoshicudas from Duncan’s website. These yoyo’s are great but the problem is that both of them arrived with rims where it leaves a sharp burr near the aluminum body of the yoyo. This wouldn’t be a problem except for the fact that I need to avoid the sharp burr along the rims every time I use the yoyos.
Here is what it looks like
I have already attempted to contact Duncan multiple times for advice but with no success.
I am thinking of either finding a way to sand the sharp rims down though I don’t want to mess up the balance of the yoyo, or I can find a way to press the rims into the yoyo.
Has anybody had this problem with any of their bimetal yoyo’s? Do you have any ideas on how to fix this problem?
I look forward to any suggestions to remove the sharp burr from the yoyos.
I’ve not had this problem but! If i did, i would sand down and polish that thing. I’d polish down to that first little lip on the aluminum. That way you for sure don’t miss that sharp edge. Plus, it’ll make the rims look fatter and cooler.
I have had similar sharp edges on a small number of my throws. Mine were all plastic. The burrs were remnants of the molding process. I use a small diamond file to smooth it off. A fingernail file of this type works well. It has a handle and is flexible just enough that you can be precise with filing and not damage adjacent areas. The diamond grit will make it possible to smooth the stainless steel.
Hey @MarioMaker17, I had this exact problem with the exact same Yoshicuda that I bought from Duncan last year.
First of all, I contacted @bjardin and he kindly gave me a refund but told me to keep the yo-yo. (That may have been a unique solution for my case, as I live in Canada.)
I then decided to attempt to salvage the yo-yo and managed to get 90% of the burr out. If I put more time in, I think I could get it all, but I’m happy with how it feels now.
What I did is I masked off the adjacent aluminum with painters tape and then used micro mesh wet sanding pads
starting at 4000 grit and gradually working my way up to 12000 grit, replacing the masking tape as needed. Wet sanding pads are key for polishing metal, as they have lower friction and will give you a nice shine.
I focused mostly right on the burr edge and really tried to get into close to the tape edge and take the burr edge off.
The point here is not to remove all the material, just to round off and polish the edge so it isn’t sharp anymore.
Best of luck!
