I had no idea which category to put this in, but for the last three months I’ve been casually designing a 1a yoyo (in my free time after homework and stuff) and I thought I would just put it out there. any thoughts? I have no idea how I would get it machined tho 
Width≈49
Diameter≈52
You could share it here!
https://forums.yoyoexpert.com/t/yoyo-cad-prototyping-adventures/
I’m not a designer but this area feels mechanically weak…. Maybe even dangerous. lol. Meat slicer. 
Profile looks cool though.
I think this sharp undercut might also be difficult to machine as it could require a custom/uncommon tool. The difficulties of machining undercuts like this is covered in the video series AtomicChessGuy shared in the other thread.
I’m not an expert by any means but it seems like the majority of the weight is in the center. This could cause a yoyo to lack spin time and stability.
i meant for it to be like the shutter step 
You can still do a step in the cup or an undercut, but you may want to make it less steep. Could even do some research into what common machining tools are so you could figure out what geometries are practical if you wanted to deep dive.
AFAIK the shutter “foil” design is a bit shallower than this, it will still look correct as long as there’s a bit of an undercut.
I thought that might be what you were going for. I love that design aspect of the Shutter line. So easy to lock in.
No suggested design performance indicated. Unnecessary machining nightmare with no known purpose.
No advantage to have hard transition from slope to wall drop. Unless a players string to gap alignment is constantly dead on the money having that hard transition will cause the strength to deflect as it enters the gap and you will feel a clicking as the string transitions off that corner. Based at least on your image rendering there seems to be no bearing in place. If that is the case and what I’m seeing are the seat posts then with the bearing installed, you don’t have much room for the string to roll up without rising slightly above that transitional corner. Which essentially means you’re not gonna be able to get a consistent string rolled up without possible stacking especially if you bind a lot on returns. On your next throwdown the yo-yo we roll off tight or it’ll fall off and down the string because of that boxed Area peripheral to the bearing.
So it’s been a while since your first post of that profile design. It seems that you’re still stuck on that hard point in the cup. It would be much easier to lose that little triangle when machining the cup of the yo-yo halves. It doesn’t appear to represent any feat in design engineering, That would result in some sort of performance advantage.
…. It looks more like a test a machine shop professor would give an advanced student just to see if they could execute that shape.
On the positive side, I think it’s great that you worked up a design that looks like it could have potential… But on the downside, it seems more like at this stage. You’re designing something not based on science of spin but more Executing a design that just looks like forward thinking.
In an abstract way, it’s kind of like being real good at sketching and sketching an image of an airplane. And the sketch looks really nice, but the artist may not have any depth of knowledge or understanding The actual critical dynamics of wing shape play in how a plane moves through the air.
In other words, everybody in the class, just loves your sketch of an airplane. And a flight engineer looks at it and tells you cool image, but that sucker won’t fly.
Something like that.
You are definitely getting somewhere in even attempting to design a yo-yo. But I think you need a little more in depth information regarding things you should stay away from in order to make a Feasible and functional shape and avoid elements that don’t have any obvious advantage for the trouble involved in creating the design.
This is better than the last one. I would say. You will want to fillet these places so they aren’t sharp:
Your shape is fine if you like an H-Shape. I don’t think there would be the biggest problem with the string not falling into the gap properly but maybe increase that angle a little bit.
This is probably fine:
Other than that the only advice I have is to make sure that everything is constrained(All the lines should be black not blue), and some minor interfacing things with the bimetal rims.
Here are some videos you can watch if you want:
As always if you have any more questions feel free to PM me. And don’t get discouraged by any negative comments you might get. You’ll get there eventually.
Edit: Question answered elsewhere on why the posts should not be touching.
To sum up the response I was given, you want the bearing to dictate the parallelism between halves not the bearing post and you want the bearing to be seated on both sides not having a gap can prevent that allowing the bearing to shift.
