Please help me with my yoyo design

Hello yoyoeXpert yoyoers,

I am a jewellery designer and cad operator from South Africa.
I have been throwing yoyo for a while. I recently bought my first full metal yoyo with a diameter of 50mm (1.96 inches). I am enjoying this yoyo a lot.

With the experience of my larger plastic yoyo’s they fit better in my hand.

Instead of purchasing a bigger full metal yoyo I thought it would be fun to design and make my own due to my current job that will make this easier.
My friend that has access to CNC equipment will assist me with this project.

I was following other people’s threads forum and has done a lot of research about other individuals that designed there own yoyo’s.

Would someone please take a look at my specks and give me some pointers due to that I would like to make it a once off project that comes close to perfect as possible.

I am thinking of using 6061 Aluminium because I have read this will be the best for the anodizing process. This yoyo currently weighs 59 gram without the excel, bearing and silicone response o-rings. Please take a look at my rendering and specks below.

This will be a nice challenge.

Kind regards,
Van

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There seems to be a lot of the weight in the rims which should make it spin for a long time. Have you considered making the gap a bit bigger. Usually makes for a bit better feel in one’s hand.

i will play around with the gap wight a little! do you mean more V-shape??
what do you think about taking the diameter to 57mm?

I believe he is referring to making it more of a “V” shape being that your current 4.85mm gap is plenty. Personally if I were you, I would take it up to the 57mm diameter but when doing so I would nix the flattening out of the rims and keep the slope of them heading towards the gap, effectively making the throw all catch zone. I just find the flatter the rim the easier it is to tilt your throw off axis when not perfectly landing each string hit in the gap. Just make sure to round off the end of the rims to still keep nice comfortable edges.

is this what you meant?
I lost all the weight when i took out the flattenings so i had to lose the thumb grinds lip
but I like the V-shape

is 2mm wall thickness enough??




IMHO go back to the old shape.
No offense to the people giving you advice, but they have no experience making a yoyo so they know no better than you.
Unless a person is a yoyo manufacturer, one of the guys from One Drop or YYF or STYY or SPYY or one of the other myriad of yoyo makers, they are giving personal opinions with no basis in experience of designing a yoyo whatsoever.
IMO the first shape was much more interesting, I like throws in the 50-60 mm range that’s a lot of difference so there is a lot of room for variety. Being that you have only tried one yoyo effectively, you really don’t have a set of preferences you know that you like to play with, so your kind of an open book in that regard, so you should be pleased with anything so long as it is relatively smooth and wobble free.
My best most sincere advice is get advice on the actual machining from people whoa have actual experience doing it. The guys from One Drop(‘the Machinist’ is one of em) are very helpful as is Frank(forum name-‘Raytsh’), and his partner at ILYY(forum name-‘Crackout’). Getting advice from someone that has actual experience in the machining of yoyos, or in the getting yoyo machined, someone who can look at your CAD drawing and spot any obvious snags or problems before you start trying to cut metal.
To me the designs, both of them look just fine, but I am just a guy who throws a yoyo, never ventured down the manufacturing road.
Good luck and have fun.

2mm thick walls is too much. Anything between 1 and 1.5mm is fine. Put the saved material as far away from the rotation axle as possible (doesn’t have to be far on the outside, just at a large diameter).

Aside from that, it’s looking good. I would avoid such sharp edges though. Doesn’t feel good in the hand.

I think a H-shape would be better in my opinion…

I like the first one. Not too simple, not too complicated. It also has a nice little rim as a way to add rim weight. Most aluminum yoyos weigh in at anywhere from 63-70g, with the majority in the 64-67g range. I think if you bumped the weight up a little, say 65g, than you would have a much better yoyo. If I were you, not that I am, I would take that extra 4-5 grams and place it right in the curved part of the IRG. Putting the weight there, while still keeping a slight curve to it, will allow the yoyo to spin longer and have better grinds.

Okay… new update

This is what I came up with all the help en suggestions

Gone back to the first design and made the diameter 57mm
Width is still on 41mm
Made the side walls thinner, 1.5 mm
and all the weight I take off and move it to the rims
The weight is now at 65g without the excel, bearing and silicone o-rings
all an all 67.9g

do any one know if the anodizing add more weight??

and if any one got tips on bearing seats
my seat is drawn up on a C-size bearing
This will be hard part to find out how accurate the engineers and the CNC machine are and how many points of a mm they accurate to 0.000
How much smaller or bigger must I draw the bearing seat?

for all the reply’s so far
appreciated

van



You should do something different, like a lot of steps, so that people might be interested in it, instead of something that is pretty popular

^^As the OP currently only has one metal yoyo, I think it’s better to rather stick to a conventional “tried and trusted” shape.

I do think it’s looking pretty good though!

I don’t know anything in making yoyos, but I liked the idea of a full size lightweight throw, 57mm for 59grams, round shape, I’d love to throw that.

keep at it, try some things

Do not hesitate to contact manufacturers, they’ll be happy to help and don’t be afraid of any of em “stealing” your designs, this is not how we roll.

If I were you, I’d contact

  • OneDrop guys, they know what they’re doing
  • Xcube, when it comes to original shapes and specs, this is the guys who can make it happen

But my advice here is to go for your original idea and find a way to make it work.

Anodizing doesn’t add any weight. It just changes the existing surface.

Thank you every one for your posts !!

I’m talking to the engineers today about the bearing seat and how accurate the machines are!.. ?

If anyone have any more advice for me… or stuff I need to watch out for. PLEASE post!!!
I will appreciate it.

and I will keep this topic updated on progress.

From my experience with onedrop spyy and most yoyo companies, they all have something like a little nub sticking out at the same level as the axle, this helps keep it centered and makes it feel smoother

No. 6061 is not strong enough to go as low as 1mm. The guys at OD advised me on this and told me they never go below what I think was 1.6mm on the thickness of a wall.