I have my old Duncan Metal Drifter lying around and I was looking for tips on modding it. The stock response is completely gone. I haven’t got a lathe but I was wondering if the recess( or lack of) is deep enough to silicone. Also, I’m very interested in stacking it! Any tips/ links to parts or tutorials would be greatly appreciated!
send chris rice a pm or email or something about stacking. He’s stacked a lot of stuff, including a DNS.
I think (don’t quote me on this) that to stack something that doesn’t have the axle visible, you drill out a hole for it, then do the basic stacking mod with pgm stuff.
Okay, thank you! I know that I’d need some type of longer axle and they YYF hubstack/ bearing kit bit I didn’t know what else. Also, the drifter has removable caps that reveal the axles.
Ps: anyone know if it’s possible to widen the gap/ fit a c sized bearing?
Okay, I’ve found a few recourses on stacking it but stil no luck with the sili question. Is the recess deep enough to use flowable silicone? Also. Would the gap be wide enough if I replaced the spacers or do I need to beefcake it? Either way, would I be able to use a c bearing?
What response would be best for use with a beefcaked Drifter? I would like to use recessed silicone if at all possible, but some have said the walls “might” not be thick enough to recess. Anyone recessed a Drifter? If so, would has one side or both worked best for you guys?
/\ …Would the Crucial spacer work with beefcaking and/or hubstacking the Drifter?
No, the Crucial SPR will not be helpful in any way for beefcaking or hubstacking your Drifter. To answer previous questions and those that have gone unasked, you cannot put a C bearing in your Drifter without first modding the yo-yo and putting in some other form of spacer. The Crucial SPR (and just about every spacer on the market) is not just going to drop into your Drifter either. It will take a decent bit of cutting the Drifter on a lathe to make it work.
After putting in the Crucial SPR your option to beefcake will be out the window. Speaking of beefcaking, there is no reason why you should need to use it as a means to widen the gap on the Drifter. Stock, the gap is plenty big for even the most complicated string tricks and widening it by a significant amount with beefcaking is only going to lead to kickback. If you want to max out the gap, a shim under the spacers will do the job. If you are looking for the string centering aspect of the beefcake, then by all means throw in some thin brass spacers and have at it.
I used some spaacers from a flying beetle and beefcaked it today. You’re right, it does want to snag back and frankly, I can’t deal with it being responsive. I might just clean the A sized bearing, widen the gap with some shims, and call it a deal with the gap size. Although, no one has answered the silicone recess question. Are the Drifter’s walls thick enough to recess for flowable silicone. I have ran through too many of the stock friction pads, and i’ve tried some thin yoyofactory pads on it, but those just ripped out. I want something more reliable than pads, and it seems that silicone is the best option out there.
Dude, the Drifter has a pad recess, not a sili recess. Buy some Duncan silicone stickers. You’ll never be able to sili recess that on a drill. You would have to at least send it to someone like Icthus. Duncan Response – YoYoExpert -silicone stickers 12mm
I guess I throw a lot then. My stock pads lasted a week and a half the first time and my second Drifter lasted 2 weeks. I need something more reliable.