I need your help because one of my yoyo bearings is so stuck that I’ve been unable to remove it for days. I’ve dealt with tough cases before, but this one beats them all. Here’s what I’ve tried so far: freezing it for both shorter and longer periods, using a YYF tool, and a pair of pliers. But it just won’t budge.
It seems like the pliers give me the best chance since I managed to slightly wiggle the bearing back and forth. However, upon closer inspection, I realized that only the outer part of the bearing is moving a little, while the inner part, which is seated around the bearing sear, doesn’t move at all.
I’m completely out of ideas, and my hands hurt from gripping the yoyo so tightly yesterday At this point, I’d even settle for destroying the bearing just to get it off, but I have no clue how to go about that either. It’s incredibly frustrating and completely demotivates me from maintaining my yoyo.
Did you try freezing it before the pliers? I’ve heard it works sometimes. Wrap in a cloth or piece of a t- shirt and throw it in the freezer for about 20-30 min and try to get it off then
if all else fails and you have no choice, if you squeeze hard enough with the pliers, you should be able to break the bearing. at least that happened to me when i was trying to take a stuck A bearing off my cinfusion one day. it just crushed, and it didn’t take much force. dunno how that translates to a C bearing and i wouldnt try it unless you have no other choice
Freezing causes metal to contract, heating causes it to expand. If you’re putting the whole thing in the freezer you’re effectively shrinking the bearing onto the post more even if the post has a slight shrink. This may help if only put in for a short amount of time as it takes longer for steel to change temp.
You could try putting the yo yo half in an ice bath then heat the bearing inner race with perhaps a soldering iron or heat gun.
The reason why I say leave it in an ice bath is because the aluminum will conduct temperature change quicker than the steel.
Alternatively you could heat the bearing first then put it in the freezer as the aluminum should cool quicker, don’t leave it in for extended amounts of time, pull it check the bearing if it will remove and if it’s starting to cool the heat it alone and throw it back in.
Different situation, so I am not sure if this will be helpful, but I had a monometal yo-yo that became responsive after playing it outside in near freezing temps. It was the first time the happened, so I wasn’t aware of the possibility and assumed it was a bearing issue.
When I brought it inside, I found that it was impossible to unscrew. Chilling it to an even lower temp in the freezer did not help.
On a whim, I placed it in a dish will a level of boiling water that did not reach as high as the bearing. Then I poured more boiling water into the upward facing cup. This solved the problem within a minute or so. I was able to unscrew the yo-yo and remove the bearing without a tool, as usual.
Maybe cycles of cold and heat would work for your case?
With the size of this though the difference in thermal expansion and contraction is only .00002 or so. You will yield better results with a combination of heat and cool.
Well, when I was working in a bikeshop, as a mechanic for a year, we had a lot of stuck screws and connections. And on bicycles is often not possible to use a flame to heat it, because the connectend components are plastic, thin alu, painted, carbon. So we always used a generous amount of penetrating oil (Thread penetrator, Screw helper, whatever). Worked 100% every time.
Two flush fitting or pressed metal surfaces will most definetly stick to each other, through friction or slight oxidation, does not mean they need to be rusted/corroded, but they hold.
I never once mentioned using flame. I come from an industrial background with pieces of metal way larger and stuck with more pressure than press fit bicycle parts.
Regardless of what you’ve said, if you have a press fit that is seized there are multiple ways to remove it, banging it loose, slide hammer puller, lubricant if you’re lucky. Applying temperature changes to th two components is the one of the best looseners of tight tolerances fits. As cited above with the boiling water (screw seized with cold weather, female threads heated to expand the id.)
Sorry, this was not an attack on you or your previous point.
I more just wanted to emphasize the effectiveness of penetrating oil for use in small partrs or for parts, that may be more delicate to strong temperature changes, from my personal experience.
I dont have penetrating oil at home. Closest thing that I have might be YYF thin lube for bearings. Do you think it worth giving a try? If that fails i might get some oil.
Penetrating oil and thin lube are practically the same thing. Thinner oil also penetrating seeps between and causes iron oxide to separate from steel. Its usually safe on anno because aluminum oxide isn’t the same. Good luck.
Would love to hear the results on how you free it when you do.
You can put a string between the bearing and the other side of the bearing seat. Close the yoyo tightly and unscrew it. The bearing should hopefully stick to the otherside. Afterwards you just have to pull the string to pop the bearing off.
I have used the back side drill bits to perfectly fit the inner race and just slow rock it back and forth then turn the throw 90° and rock it back and forth some more, another 90° and rock some more, slowly but surely it will come off. The YYF works well for most cases, but when they are stuck like that, something with more leverage is in order. A drill bit with the business end wrapped in electrical tape or a drift punch usually gets the job done.
The inner diameter of my One Drop 10 Ball is .237”, or slightly less than a 1/4”, or 6mm
At this point, I’d even settle for destroying the bearing just to get it off, but I have no clue how to go about that either. It’s incredibly frustrating and completely demotivates me from maintaining my yoyo. 
