Now that I’m back in the office, I’m ready for my second full sized. I like the Leopold FC900R so well that I’m going with that again (was definitely tempted by the Topre version, but the replacement cap choices seemed very limited). I chose Cherry MX Silent Reds so I don’t drive my coworkers crazy. Going to push-stem-lube those with some Super Lube (as far as I’m willing to go to lube). Then add EPOMAKER AKKO Macaw keycaps to top it off (lol, they go with our company logo colors).
The Realforce RGB has all the benefits of Topre switches with the added benefit of taking MX keycaps.
Topre is just a fancy membrane keyboard though
And a Ferrari is just a fancy combustion engine car. What’s your point?
What are people’s thoughts on the moonlander?
Hey yall, need some advice; my cat spilled a beer on my tofu build and I think there is beer coating the leafs in the switch emselves (there go 60ish lubed n filmed tangerines), and I broke a diode on my dz60rgbv2 cleaning the spill off x.x point being, I got a bunch of gateron lasers and I wonder what’s a decent board to resolder or with hot swap that I can use while I refurb the beer board? Gmmk compact and the k63 wireless from corsair got 3pin construction and I really don’t want to clip my other switches, or have to buy new ones.
I prefer stuff tkl and under, I really love 1800s and 60/65% with the extra random button cluster like the ducky one 2 sf, and I dream for wireless capabilities compatible with a gasket mount case. Does anyone know of a unicorn like this?
Is the gasket effective in it? I heard it gets compressed and does relatively little to other gasket mount boards. What’s your experience with that?
What does a gasket actually do anyway?
I’m not your typical enthusiast that claims that small this make huge differences or are really noticeable.
Prevents the high-pressure fluids in your keyboard from leaking out.
(For those of you already familiar with lubing, be sure to see the last part of this post.) Okay, of course I saw everyone talking about lubing keys, and thought it might be nice to try, even though I imagined it was going to be super tedious. I saw a page that discussed how to do it without opening the switches, de-soldering and re-soldering everything. They did mention, however, that opening the switches was the most effective for results, and to only expect a 70% result with the other methods.
So, they described either spraying or pushing lube into the switches. Spray was described as fast to apply but a pain with the cleanup and slightly more thorough of the two ways. The recommended second way was pushing the stem down and slipping a piece of thin plastic dipped in lube between the stem and outer switch housing, top and bottom.
Using Super Lube 51004 and a trimmed plastic straw, I tried the second method on the F1 key, remembering that a separate video warned of not getting enough lube in there resulting in minimal improvement. So, I squeezed the cut straw end in there with a good wetting. The results were an improvement, but it wasn’t jaw dropping. This was on a Leopold with Cherry Clears and two silicone O-rings in the caps. It was good enough to do all the keys, but I had one other idea, since slipping the straw bit in was a little hit and miss.
I decided to try using a syringe with a fine 23 gauge blunt tip needle (Amazon has them for fine gluing projects, etc.) I couldn’t easily draw up the lube due to the fine gauge, but I could easily fill the back end and still plunge it through. I pushed the stem down with a small tool (even a paper clip wire would work) and then centered the syringe tip at the top of the switch between the stem and the outer housing and put a little light pressure to get a drop in there, then the same at the bottom. The results were much better with just a slight drop, but out of curiosity and since I never use the F2 and F3, I tested one with a little more lube. Wow, that quieted it down significantly. Enough that I don’t think the Silent Reds I ordered for the office board are needed. [FAIR WARNING:] I don’t have much experience with this hobby, and although I am typing this out in pleasant buttery hushed strokes, I don’t know if that much lube will cause problems or leak, but I have a silly grin on my face about how relatively easy this was and the results.
Here’s my humble Keyboardio Atreus with Kailh Box Browns. I have Boba U4T switches coming in the next few days. Looking forward to the increased tactility and weight. Would love to get snazzier keycaps at some point.
I’ve had this since the first of the year and love it. Have my layout pretty much dialed in with the occasional tweak.
Using a syringe is interesting. And probably much quicker than the traditional way. The board I’m currently typing on is using NK Creams which I tediously disassembled, lubed with a tiny brush, then reassembled. But this was also prior to soldering so it was much easier. Maybe for my next build I’ll try a syringe and save myself a couple hours.
‘Lube leak’ depends greatly on the viscosity of the lube. I’m not sure how viscous Super Lube 51004 is.
Super Lube 51004 viscosity is ISO 100.
Ok, so it’s relatively low viscosity. I used Krytox 205g2 which has a viscosity of 160cSt @ 40°C (ISO 100 = 100 cSt @ 40°C).
Maybe give it a day or two of use and check and make sure no lube has leaked onto the PCB.