What keycaps were you buying lol. I think I’m gonna make a 60% from bottom up. I’m gonna get keycaps and dye them, and I have a few questions
What switches should I buy? I’m open to any, though I’m looking at Cherry reds and Kailh navy’s. I’m open to suggestions though.
For the pcb, should I go for a hot swap or a normal? I have a soldering iron already so that doesn’t add to the cost.
For the case should I go aluminum, plastic, or make my own wooden one.
1: all preference, box navys got the super obnoxious click, Id go gateron for linears (yellows are a great stock alternative
2: Depends on if youre gonna wanna order more switches to fiddle with, although there is less headache with solderable (like you wont bend pins putting the switch in, however that is an easy problem to fix when you come across it.
3: custom wood would be so dope. But the sturdier the material, the better the acoustics. Regardless try to fill any deadspace with foam
I wonder if the sticky hands material would work for sound dampening (assuming it doesn’t do something bad chemically).
Would probably harden and shrivel like slime does. I just use whatever foam the keyb come packed in, there’s usually a thin enough sheet to cut into shape.
Is there any way to still have keys on a dyed keycap? I’m wanting to still have the letters and whatnot but I really want to dye keys lol. Key sets just don’t seem as fun for me because the colors aren’t the best (in my opinion) and you just stick em on and your done with it. Is there a way to have letters on dyes keycaps?
Does anyone have experiences with Hako Royal clear switches? They look like a great tactile switch.
Is it a silenced design? If not, then I don’t know what makes it so great… 
Seriously though, I don’t understand how anyone can stand bottom-out/upstroke switch clack, and I don’t understand why manufacturers put out non-dampened switches anymore. It’s like we’re living in the dark ages, or something.
I guess that’s what makes you a Topre guy.
Purpleheart case with oak inlay, Gateron PBT keycaps, and Gateron brown switches except for the spacebar, which is a Cherry clear.
I want to get 75% sometime soon. The KBD75 and XD84 both look attractive.
@zslane - The part on the spacebar of my Model M that connects the stabilizer has broken and I now need a new spacebar. Do you know of any resource in which I could get one?
I would ask around in the Geekhack forums. Someone there might have spare keycaps from salvaged Model Ms.
Do you guys know where I can buy 100% parts? My plan has changed a little…
What do you mean buy 100% parts? Like ‘all’ the parts or do you want a full-sized keyboard?
I asked some people on Reddit and they gave me a site, but I meant like the pcb and case and plate and stuff. So I’ve got it figured out. You guys like this key set? I’m going with a white case and plate and a purple cord.
https://kbdfans.com/products/np-ninja-keycaps-set?variant=34031086993547
I have a question for switches, do you guys think I should go with kalih purple pros or kalih speed coppers? It’s gonna be more of a gaming keeb, but I still would like a tactile switch.
Kailh Speed Coppers have a shorter travel, hence the “speed” in their name. They are good switches, but so are Purple Pros. If you want a standard travel length, go with the purples.
I’m not familiar with the NP profile. What is it most similar to that I might know better?
That’s a pretty ortho you got there.
Thanks, dumped a lot of time and money before I found what I like, this was a mostly custom/MacGyvered build.
Ya, I don’t think I would survive using an ortho haha. They are very pretty and modern looking though.
