help with siliconing


#1

when ever i silicone it gets into the bearing groove(this is the little groove were the bearing is placed) is there anything i can do to prevent that.


#2

just take the bearing out before you sili the yoyo. you can get the extra sili off easily after it dries.


#3

if you want to get the silicone out before it dries you can take a q-tip or a toothpick with a tiny bit of paper towel on it (i use both) and go through the bearing seat and clean the silicone out before it dries up and gets into the bearing which will make it responsive.


#4

yes but it is MUCH easier to just leave it alone to dry and then take the extra off


(Hardcore_Max) #5

Definatly it is much easier to remove the silicone once it has dried, it should just peel right out of where you don’t want it.


#6

I hate removing silicone after it dries. I think it’s because I want to play with it right after it dries.
I use a Q-tip too. Works wonderfully. I also cut the hole in the applicator so small that I really don’t get any excess anywhere.


#7

Different question, same topic.

Is there any difference in durability between types of silicone? “Flowable” is mentioned a lot, but I couldn’t find that. I had a choice of the red or blue RTV gasket maker at the local Walmart, as well as various household silicone sealants. Went with the blue RTV and kept it flush, but I found that it is wearing quickly. I put it in my new 2010 Freehand, and the portion closest to the bearing is already showing very tiny areas of bare plastic after a few days. I did let it cure the recommended 24 hours. Perhaps this is due to the shallow depth of the pad recess on this model? If so, I’d probably switch to silicone pads to save the effort & time.


#8

That is the problem. The recess in the 2010 Freehands are not meant to hold silicone.


#9

Mrcnja is right. But to answer your question, Yes. Flowable hardens softer than the red or black. The blue seems a lot like flowable. Next time you want to buy some just go to an auto parts store.