This will be the fastest and most productive way to finish my “Bearing Guide”.
I am asking all yoyoeXpert members to submit any information they have on different bearings. I would prefer that you only give information on bearings you have actually used, not ones ‘your friend has.’
I can look up the spec sheets for all the different bearings that are made, but they are written by the engineers that make them and the marketing directors that want to sell them. Personal experience is what makes a great guide, and I need your help with this part!
I will already be using some information on this forum, and If I use your information I will always give you credit.
The idea here is complete a guide worthy of Dyonch’s list, and as his list becomes complete we can try to convince Andre to make his thread sticky.
Any information you have can be of great value, and I thank you for your help.
Also with 10 ball bearings, I am not sure if this is correct but I think that they tend to spin longer because while there might be the same force on the bearing overall, that force is spread out over more balls so each one has less force, slowing it down less.
KK’s DO center the string, but they were made for unresponsiveness. Beginners should NOT use KK’s, as they will make the yoyo unresponsive. KK’s are not good for people who don’t have a strong throw. They can be useful for people who have crooked throws, but strong ones. If they don’t have strong throws, bind returns won’t be tight, and the throws will be affected, because the string is not wrapped around the bearing right, so it won’t roll out properly. They can take a long time to break in.
Well, if this were the case then yes but I think that just has something to do with what you did to yours. Not sure how or what but it might have come in contact with some water and not dried or something.
But yes. Include a small section about what to use for cleaning and what not to use. DO: mineral spirits, lighter fluid. DON’T: water, WD-40, acids?, etc.
No no, this has nothing to do with the Lyn Fury. This is just because we live in Singapore, and its very humid. Moisture makes bearings rust. If you play with sweaty hands and old strings, this will happen even more easily.
YYJ uses their own YYJ bearings. Those are what people call “YYJ Stock bearings”.
YYF’s high end metals come with SPEC Bearings i believe. The new PGM doesn’t however, it probably just uses another “Stock” bearing. Most probably steel though, i don’t think they rust like YYJ bearings.
Duncans just use Duncan Stock bearings.
Stock bearings are made by the companies themselves. Specs are made by YYF.
Nonono, dorothy bearings are old versions of SPEC bearings. Dorothy’s are much more inconsistent and unstable. Every once in a while, it turns noisy, sometimes it turns responsive. It is VERY sensitive to dings and stuff, which cause random noise and responsiveness. At least thats what i’ve heard ???
Actually, David from One Drop said that extra balls hardly have anything to do with it’s long spin times. According to him, the spin times just result from the fact that it’s just a well made bearing. I think the 10 balls might add a little character to it’s play.
YYJ = Standard Steel Bearing (Size C). These eventually tarshish and rust.
YYF = SPEC bearings. These are upgraded Dorothies. As Rsmod said, SPEC’s are far less delicate than Dorothies. And yes, the new PGM’s DO come with SPEC’s, they just aren’t branded.
Duncan = Standard steel bearings, just like YoYoJam. The only difference is that these are Size A. However, the Freehand MG’s come with Ceramic bearings.
Most High-End Metal yoyo manufacturers use STAINLESS Steel Bearings. These are just like YoYoJam bearings, except they are much more resistant to tarnish and rust.
