Hey guys,
I’m not quite sure why, i’ve watched all the videos on how to do it, but the C rings just wont come up. I’m jamming a needle in the little gap that they tell you to, but what either happens in the C ring just spins around or i just failed to get underneath it.
Anyone else having this problem? Any tips?
Thanks.
If you’ve tried only one side of the C, try the other side. One side allows you to get underneath it much easier than the other.
Also if you’re dexterous enough, you can use one needle to stop the C from spinning and one to get it out.
The only tip is to keep working at it, its really the only thing you can do. Is it a C-bearing or an A-bearing, also is it packed w/ grease? If its packed w/ grease, you may want to clean it w/ the shields on. This will get any grease out from under the c-clip and normally gives it a little more friction to help get them off. I’ve also found that the A-bearings are a pain to get the shields off, that’s why I leave them off. I would suggest the same if this bearing is giving you this much of an issue. I hope that helps. ;D
Thanks for the responses guys. As far as i know it is a C ring bearing.
I’ll have another stab at it tonight 
I have a spare bearing to play with in the meantime so its not that desperate, can just hear some dirt crunching around in it and want to get it cleaned properly 
Is it a center trac? Because those are the hardest to de-shield.
Nah its just a yyf stock bearing that came with my Dv888.
No bearing is different than the other when it comes to de-shielding. It takes practice. Keep picking at it and you will eventually get it off.
True.
wait can u leave the shields out?
Yes you can. Opinions vary on if it is harmful or not. Mostly people feel that it’s not, since the bearing is not exposed in any event. For myself it depends on the bearing. If it’s an “A” size I leave them off because they are usually harder to get the shield off. On “C” size I usually put them back on.
This is correct for the most part, though there are slight differences. The shape of the c clip on 10-ball bearings is different from what you see on a spec, for example. And actually, I’ve encountered a good number of bearings that required that the shields be pried off from the center because there wasn’t a c clip at all. One last thing - I’ve found an Exacto knife to work wonders for c clip removal.
Just because they all worth the same doesn’t mean they are all the same difficulty. 10 balls are a pita to get open.
Well after picking at my 10 ball, i filled managewd to get itt ulp and deshield the thing. Then able to clean it and now its running just as i want it to
Thanks for the help guys i guess just keep on working at it is the only way to get these things off. I also got a 10 ball concave bearing (not konkave) in the post the other day with my YoYoUfo Mercury, and that comes deshieled which saves me some time
I would be afraid to cut my fingers off 
Also one thing I have found is your chances of getting under the clip get much better the smaller the needle you use. So get one of your smaller needles. (This goes out to anyone who reads this in the future as I do realize the original author of this thread had success in getting the shield off his bearing.)
I use those dental looking picks you can get at the 99 cent store or bargain bin at a hardware store. They wear down but I wouldn’t use an exacto blade. They are made from a very brittle steel the tip can pop off and might very well end up in your eye or lie in wait in the carpet for someones bare foot.
Been using exacto blades for about 6 years. the same one too. You put so much less force on it taking out a “C” clip then just normal use I wouldn’t worry about it. If you are using enough force to break a exacto blade you are doing something wrong. way wrong. May want to ware safty glass’s if you are worried, but also may not want to even own one if you are that scared.
Also “C” clips have two sides if you pick at the wrong side you will never get it off.
you will have one with a “/” edge, and the other side will be “/” They are normaly slanted in the same way so only one side is pickable. They are made this way so you can’t put the “C” clip back on backwords. It makes it so there is always a pickable side of it.
I’ve been building miniatures for 16 years. I don’t think I’m scared of exacto blades. What I am scared of is someone cutting themselves because they are using the right tool for the wrong job. It’s cool if that works for you but I would not recommend it.
Just curious what number blade do you use for it? Because that could make a huge difference as to how likely the blade is to break.
I bent a needle trying to deshield a cenre track.
