FHZ Light up Pulse Mod Questions

[yoyospirit]

I bought a Freakhand and was able to recess the pads deeper. Will post pics in a bit.

[hakysak]

@Studio42

@yoyospirit

There’s your problem. Duncan uses cotton strings which are generally cause the yoyo to be responsive.

I tried that. Popped a 100% poly on there. Not much change, it’s only slightly less responsive than it was before. It’s still pretty fresh so I think I need to break in the bearing more and break in the lube.

Replacement bearings have to wait.

I’m pretty sure the lube just needed to break in. I’ve never had a problem making a Duncan A brg unresponsive, but I also run mine dry. With the pads being recessed, a clean bearing should make it unresponsive even with both pads in.

[anonyo]

@hakysak

@Studio42

@yoyospirit

There’s your problem. Duncan uses cotton strings which are generally cause the yoyo to be responsive.

I tried that. Popped a 100% poly on there. Not much change, it’s only slightly less responsive than it was before. It’s still pretty fresh so I think I need to break in the bearing more and break in the lube.

Replacement bearings have to wait.

I’m pretty sure the lube just needed to break in. I’ve never had a problem making a Duncan A brg unresponsive, but I also run mine dry. With the pads being recessed, a clean bearing should make it unresponsive even with both pads in.

Well, I played it for about a half an hour, which considering new in the package and lube it needs more time. I won’t deny that.

As far as the bearings are concerned, the Terrapin X FHZ Beefcake kits are already something I have my eye on.

[d42kn355]

This MOD allows your FHZ Pulse l.e.d.s to stay on much longer (instead of it dying out halfway through your trick)

First and foremost: I took out one Pad, replaced the aluminum spacers with the older thick brass duncan spacers, and cleaned the bearing (If you do not have another set of spacers here is a suggestion; While cleaning your bearing after deshielding the bearing do NOT discard the shields. Place them underneath the aluminum spacers, this now acts as a shim, giving the throw just a little bit more gap. Threw on a Type A Twisted Stringz. And Good to go. Dead unresponsive.

Ok, onto the good stuffs.

Take the caps off of your FHZ and set them aside, grab one half of your throw and you will be looking at this:

As you’ll notice on the lower right side where the Positive and Negative leads meet to complete the circuit is generally about a 2 mm gap. This gap closes while the yoyo is spinning causing the l.e.d.s to display their wonderful little light show, Well if you were just as sad as me to have the lights die out half way through a majority of tricks, well then you’re in luck. This is an extremely easy fix with excellent results!
I’m not the best at explaining things, so I made a little diagram to best represent what i’m trying to say:

Place a small bend or curve in the middle of the Left (Positive) Battery lead, allowing the curved end (Where the + and - meet) to be angled downwards a little bit, which in turn closes the gap a bit, allowing the two leads to connect with less force (I’ve even gotten it to light up just fine on a flick start )

And viola! Longer Light Up FHZ times

[hadoq]

this light time mod works a charm, thanks !

[jrodriguez]

[quote=“d42kn355,post:24,topic:31333”]
Just a heads up - at least on my light up FHZ, using the brass spacers creates a gap that the string can fall into. I don’t usually use the widest spacers in my FHZs, but I thought I’d give it a whirl - the string got caught in the gap and snapped on the first throw. Perhaps the ones that were available at Nats are different - I have no idea. But if you replace the spacers with the wide brass ones, check for a gap next to the bearing before you throw.

Awesome job figuring out the light mod!

[PlasticWhip (WildCat23)]

[quote=“jrodriguez,post:26,topic:31333”]

@d42kn355

Just a heads up - at least on my light up FHZ, using the brass spacers creates a gap that the string can fall into. I don’t usually use the widest spacers in my FHZs, but I thought I’d give it a whirl - the string got caught in the gap and snapped on the first throw. Perhaps the ones that were available at Nats are different - I have no idea. But if you replace the spacers with the wide brass ones, check for a gap next to the bearing before you throw.

Awesome job figuring out the light mod!

Use a kk. It’s better. I won’t say it fixed it because it still falls into it sometimes.

[hadoq]

[quote=“PlasticWhip,post:27,topic:31333”]

@jrodriguez

@d42kn355

Just a heads up - at least on my light up FHZ, using the brass spacers creates a gap that the string can fall into. I don’t usually use the widest spacers in my FHZs, but I thought I’d give it a whirl - the string got caught in the gap and snapped on the first throw. Perhaps the ones that were available at Nats are different - I have no idea. But if you replace the spacers with the wide brass ones, check for a gap next to the bearing before you throw.

Awesome job figuring out the light mod!

Use a kk. It’s better. I won’t say it fixed it because it still falls into it sometimes.

I had a KK for my first FHZ, but gave it away with the yoyo, what an horrible throw that was, the 2011 version (lit up, the one we’re talking about here) is MUCH better

[yoyospirit]

[quote=“hadoq,post:28,topic:31333”]

@PlasticWhip

@jrodriguez

@d42kn355

Just a heads up - at least on my light up FHZ, using the brass spacers creates a gap that the string can fall into. I don’t usually use the widest spacers in my FHZs, but I thought I’d give it a whirl - the string got caught in the gap and snapped on the first throw. Perhaps the ones that were available at Nats are different - I have no idea. But if you replace the spacers with the wide brass ones, check for a gap next to the bearing before you throw.

Awesome job figuring out the light mod!

Use a kk. It’s better. I won’t say it fixed it because it still falls into it sometimes.

I had a KK for my first FHZ, but gave it away with the yoyo, what an horrible throw that was, the 2011 version (lit up, the one we’re talking about here) is MUCH better

It’s good you didn’t hold any grudges against your past experience.

[hadoq]

well, holding a grudge is not something anyone wants to do, I would have missed out on a great little throw because of my own stupidity.

my first FHZ was not a good throw, this one is very fun to play and very different feeling than the previous one. Still not a beast, but very nice for it’s price and a legit 5A throw (tho I’m not going to DD with it)

now I just wish they make the dice more durable as my first one broke down after a couple weeks of play.

[d42kn355]

Thought Id Give this Thread a BUMP with my new FHZ Pulse OffString Mod

I took the Rims off of a Yomega XodusII and affixed them to my FHZ. I found a small brass spacer, and an aluminum medium spacer and added One fresh friction sticker to one side, and there was a partially used one already in it, so i simply covered it with a fresh one. This raises the response out a little to allow for tighter binding, as this throw is a little heavier (due to it being a FHZ Pulse, rather than a normal FHZ). Give it a try if you have an old XodusII lying around.

[anonyo]

Not as amazing, but I got a Hayabusa clear for the specific purposes of putting the Shinwoo LED Light up kit in there. It’s a really nice combination!

[d42kn355]

FHZ Pulse + Pro-Z = The Chiefs Hand~!

[PlasticWhip (WildCat23)]

Hows it play?

[Qozux]

I’ve got the same fhz pulse and I haven’t done anything to it. The sleep time is pretty decent as already stated, but the yoyo isn’t very stable. Anything that can be done to help with that?