Awesome, thanks!
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I started out by making sure I had specific elements down to a t before putting them into combos, and then I worked on a new element each week, I think the problem comes when I try to learn to many things at once
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Agree, I like how Edās throws have been refined over the various editions. I really like this one too.
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Anyone have an axle and caps for the dehcade by any chance? My areā¦done for.
Already? need pics, did you scorch them throwing to much heat? or were you over tightening and they broke?
Itās not an interesting story lol. Cap is shredded and axle donesies. Just need a new one to get back to it.
So you FUBARād it?
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Yes. Yes I did. Iām not proud of it either.
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Looks like Colin has some in his playtmbr shop.
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What size would this one be?
516 is a 5/16" axle diameter and the 416 is a 1/4" axle diameter. The lager axle 516 has more response and play a little slower, the 416s are the stock ones and they spin faster. The wood threaded system works with most TMBRs since 2013 with a few exceptions on the real slim models.
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I wonder if these are the new ācenteringā style axles?!?
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Unfortunately itās not an uncommon story either, the parts are delicate and the axle system is more complicated than it looks at first glance. I had a similar experience and now I donāt use tools on the caps. When the axle gets stuck I wrap an old belt around the threads so I can grab it with pliers without damaging them.
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I asked Colin that question and the answer was 416:
āYou are correct about the axles. 416 is what came standard on the pockeht and the WoodZ. The difference between a 416 and 516 is the diameter of the turned down axle portion itself. 416 is smaller diameter, 516 is larger (think small bearing vs large bearing).ā
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Normally I donāt tinker with yoyos but I wanted to make the gap a tad tighter as the string I have is quite thinner than what came with it. I wonāt mess with the gap anymore lol
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Youāre not the first one to mess up a TMBR axle. 
The reason I had to get a replacement was that I torqued the axle while trying to adjust the response by making the gap smaller. After the third adjustment I heard a crunch and felt the axle flex.
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Iāve found the most critical thing to remember is DO NOT try to remove a cap that is still touching the axle. In my experience the order for disassembly of a TMBR goes as follows.
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Use hands to unscrew unscrew the yoyo. (There will be one half either axle in it and the other will not have the axle.)
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Use hands to remove axle or if it wonāt come by hand then take cloth or something and wrap axle and use pliers to remove the axle. (Now you will have two halves with caps still in and an axle piece.
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Remove caps with a LARGE flat head. They should come out easily now, but donāt use one that is too small! Take a TMBR to the store with you and find the perfect fitting screw driver.
It seems to me itās likely the mistake everyone makes is trying to unscrew the cap before taking out the axle that is pressing against it locking it in place.
PS. Iāve got an assortment of axles in a variety of woods. Shoot me a PM. 
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Wow mate, I placed an order from tmbr earlier 17$ shipped. I wouldāve just gone with you haha. I feel ya, I straight broke the axle using a pad. It was seized so darn tight. Itās a great design. Itās just a learningism for me. On the other hand Iāve been playing hours on hours of fixed axle and itās pure joy.
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I snagged an eHknown and wrecked the axle about 3 hours in trying to tinker like a dingus. Good times!
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I know there have been some questions about another DeHcade drop and I can confirm that they ARE in the works.
Colin is gathering materials to make an additional run over the next few weeks with the goal of releasing them by the end of Fixed Axle February.
With that in mindā¦ LETāS GIVE ONE AWAY.
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