What is the difference between a yoyo model designed for 3A vs. a yoyo designed for 1A?
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It’s a good question; I don’t feel there is much difference.
@ColinBecko had some comments here
YO-YOS To many competitors, an ideal 3A yo-yo is something slim (42mm for example), heavy (67g for example), and stable. Those numbers are just ideal values, but anything in that range will work. The reason why these attributes are ideal is because stability is key, and having a slimmer yo-yo usually allows for that. It’s also best to use a mid or oversized yo-yo to start out. Below are some examples of yo-yos in multiple price ranges that are excellent for starting out.
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Thanks 
The qualities of 3A yo-yos are all pretty advantageous, imo, as they are meant to spin longer and be more stable. This helps with a lot of 1A - surely, speed isn’t as good, but a long spinning yo-yo is most important to me personally.
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I am curious why you say “slimmer is more stable” … isn’t wider more stable? Really great discussion of width in yoyo design in this video.
It is really funny that in 2001 the Freehand Pro (on the left, here) was considered “too wide for tricks” !
Also I’d assume rim weight is important in this scenario for ultra stability / spin, so bimetals would be better too?
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It might be that by “stable” @ColinBecko means less tendency to twist when sleeping. I find that my wider yo-yos want to spin more on the vertical axis than narrow ones.
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