I’ve been plugging away at looping, and I’ve done it long enough where I can tell it will stick. It is a nice break from string tricks. I’ve tried a number of things from a loop 1080, modded Raider, loop 900, Relic, and nothing seems perfect for my skill level yet. I read that you should stop looping and start over if things are sloppy to get correct muscle memory. I’m finding that controlling the yoyo, and keeping it at 1:00 is extremely difficult. I suspect the yoyo is intermittently sleeping at end of the loop throwing off my timing. I was recommended to start with a fixed axle until I can get my loops consistent and in control. So what is everyone’s experience? Did you start fixed axle? How did you overcome that initial learning curve? What’s a good starting fixed axle? Thanks everyone!
Yes, I started with a fixed axle (that’s all there was at the time). Still not that good at it. If you think it’s stalling at the end of the string, lube the bearing. A thicker lube is best. On my raiders I actually lube them with white moly grease.
If you start with fixed axles you only need to worry about string tension. On the loops you are on the right track starting over as soon as they get sloppy. It is great if you have a 2a player in your area who can evaluate your technique. The position of your hands and keeping the motion in your wrist is important.
I’m learning that string size plays a big part and I think my string is too thin on my Loop 900 and I haven’t messed with the gap yet. My only complaint about the Raider is how aggressive it returns. It tears up my finger and is uncomfortable when you don’t catch right… but it’s a good throw. I like it a lot but usually want to switch out after a while. There are a lot of variables that I’m trying to work out. Thanks for your input.
This stuff? Robot or human?
I say, use anything you have on your hand. If you wanna go fixed axle, I can only recommend Proyos since I have tried them personally and it loops great, it will also teach you string tension, maybe in the hard way.
I started with 720s, then modded raiders/fireballs, fast forward four years trying different loopers, I still prefer modded raiders/fireballs.
If the yoyo sleeps at the end of the string, tug earlier.
I find that the best way to learn proper loops is to perfect finger/wrist movement first, then the loop itself later. Try to mimic high level 2a players finger/wrist movement as similar as possible, once you can do that, then work on the loop.
Focus on the proper form.
No, I’m sorry I was confused (imagine that!!!) It’s white lithium grease, not moly.
If you spend time working with fixed axles the string length is important. If the strings are too long the yo-yo drifts download on the loops and you have to work harder to maintain a good loop. If the string is too short the yo-yo will drift upwards. It takes some time to figure out the right string size. The fixed axle strings tend to be longer than the string you would use on a bearing yo-yo.
what luke said about string length is definitely true for most fixed axles, which means loops tend to be longer and slower. that can be easier or harder, depending on how your technique has progressed. imo looping fixed is a bit harder and more subject to variables than looping with bearings. proyos are great, as are old hummingbirds. definitely worth your while to try a bunch of different models (including bearings), as all of them will help you solidify your loops AND your preferences.
Lots of good information here. When you talk about string tension, do you mean learning to keep it neutral or are you saying experiment with keeping it looser or tighter than neutral? I’ve been keeping it neutral mainly to reduce variables. I guess my initial suspicion was correct; that I need to try a bunch of stuff. I do want to try fixed axle as well. I’ve been eyeing the No Jive for some time. Will that work for looping or is it not the best choice for fixed?
I’m learning a lot from this thread. Hopefully more of you will share your experiences!
Fixed axle is generally “more sensitive” to string tension changes than bearing loopers, and even bearing loopers are sensitive already. After a few loops, the string become slightly looser or tighter, and then the response changes drastically.
yeah fixed axle has a shorter window with regard to string life than bearings for sure. takes time to break in, and then they wear out more quickly. what i notice with fixed is that a lot of the energy you put into your loops is expended by friction, so it’s harder to keep doing accurate loops over a long period.
you generally NEED positive or neutral string tension for any kind of fixed loops. low tension will get snaggy in a hurry. and of course you won’t be doing significant wrap combos with fixed axle. i have a pair of no jives that are perfect, but in general i would stay away from them for 2-handed. the nice thing about them is that by shimming/sanding the gaps you can arrive at a zone that works perfectly for the string length you want. but in my experience they loop a bit heavy. proyos or technics are WAY easier to work with. if you want all wood, a few bc/hummingbird models are often less $ and more consistent loopers.
Trivia for this thread… The last time fixed axle yo-yos were used to win 2a at the National Contest was in 1997.
The Pro-Yos and Technics may be easier fixed axles to work with on 2a. The solid wood yo-yos are a little heavy. I haven’t tried modifying the No-Jives; but I do keep a pair for looping. The shimming/sanding makes a lot of sense in order to have a great pair of loopers. The wood fixed axles can also get you into the art of waxing and sanding.
Yes, I’ve found that for the string length I like that I need to shim my no-jives.