How thin can the cup walls get the thinnest part of my design is approximately 1mm. Is that too thin or could it be thinner?
http://vignette4.wikia.nocookie.net/yoyo/images/1/1e/Body_names.jpg/revision/latest?cb=20100405022746
Administrator-I don’t know if this is the right place to put the post so if it is not please move it to the correct place.
I’m no designer, but I would think that 1mm would be too thin for it to have reasonable durability and for consistent quality in production… I guess it depends on what material you are using. But I could be totally wrong. Perhaps ask someone like 2SickJoey or YYFBen.
Titanium?
If the wall is too thin you risk the hub caving in.
In 6061 don’t go thinner than 1.5mm or .06"
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I’m no expert but that looks a bit too thin. also anybody please correct me if i’m wrong but that much rim weight without some center weight may cause some problems as well
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Thank you The Machinest and by the way the image was just to show what I was talking about. If you want to see my design, I might post about it in the Up and Coming Manufactures section so look out for that.
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Whilst we have you here Mr Machinist, is there any chance that you could shed some light on how that compares to the minimum thickness for 7075 and Titanium? 
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If anyone knows how to make a bi-metal or hybrid yoyo that would be great. I think the bi-metals just have a very tight allowance/fit or even an slight interference fit (nobunaga). For a hybrid, I am thinking there is a notch where the metal and plastic locks (sort of like a duncan fhz cap). Is that right?
titanium is good to .5mm or .02" and with 7075 I keep it at 1mm or .04"
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Now what about acetal/delrin/celcon?
Try not to go thinner that .3 parsecs.
I want to see the the mic you measure that with…
db
lol, sounded fancy; thought you were serious, but Google…
I won´t suggest to go with bi-metal unless you meet any of this 2 requirements:
1- The Maker you are using have experience with fitting the rings (ON YOYOS), because no matter how much tolerance you use making the parts, if the rings are not placed properly, you´ll get a vibe fest and lose money in the process.
2- You or the machinist have enough money/materials to spare to practice.
I´m telling you out of experience, the first machinist I used for the Nobunaga had top notch Japanese machines and experience making precision parts for cars, but no experience with yoyos, it was a disaster and the guy quit.
The current maker has previous success with bi-metals and still, with the size of the rings being so much compared with the body there is little room for mistakes when assembling the rings (using hydrogen as coolant for the aluminum body instead of heating the rings for expansion proved being better way) it needed quite a while to get a hold on it, and still I think there still room for even improvement.
Is up to you if you want to get there.
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^This. And I think you mean Nitrogen? It is a much better method than heating the rings.
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You mean 0.3 in right?
No, I was making a joke. Really though the plastic question is tough as each one has its own properties.