One comment is your rim.
If this is Carbon Fiber and you “Ding” that edge/rim, it is going ro be extremely uncomfortable. Think mor along the lines of a “Chip”.
Maybe think of using you metal in this area.
One comment is your rim.
If this is Carbon Fiber and you “Ding” that edge/rim, it is going ro be extremely uncomfortable. Think mor along the lines of a “Chip”.
Maybe think of using you metal in this area.
wouldn’t really chip, it’ll be like a plastic ding, especialy with the rim glued onto the body and that part is thick enough, so i doubt it’s going to chip, of course i’ll do a practical stress test with it once i made it
If you would like you can send me the file in a DM and I can import it into my software so I could tell you what it is exactly.
Currently prototyping an update to a yoyo I made back around 2020 called the Treeline! Link to a review of the original.
This looks pretty cool! What software are you using?
Thanks! This was in Fusion, Inventor was the one I did in school but then I got a Macbook and this was easier to pick up than AutoCAD lol
I’ve unlocked the power of material texture and rendering, this looked like the phenom because for the initial concept i thought about using a rim from sturm panzer eclipse ogre arousal sold in the orange japanese retail, i didn’t went with it because i can’t find the dimension of the rims
how thin can a make the walls of a full steel yoyo? i know aluminum 7075 is 1.2 mm
Uhm others more experienced will have to chime in @MarkD @hobbygod but i would say maybe 1mm for most of the body and for the thinnest of places 0.8mm
Steel, maybe 0.6mm?? I need to check my notes. It’s very thin though!
Most of my fully steel yoyos are .8mm, or slightly under. I’ve never had a steel yoyo go under .75mm
This is from the design notes for the Prohibition Excess (found via the wayback machine):
In order to keep the weight at the target of 65g it was necessary to trim as much excess (hehe) material from the profile and cup of the yoyo as possible. SS is able to be machined as thin as .5mm (as seen in the SS Koi and Bowl 303) but I worried that simply pushing the material to its limits would result in a less durable final product that had much higher b-grade rates. Instead, I chose to have slightly thicker walls and optimize the hub as much as possible to reduce center weight. This is not to say that the Excess much weight in the walls, as it is machined thin enough to have a weight distribution similar to that of a 7000 series aluminum yoyo.
Edit to add, the SS Koi write-up on the yoyofriends site includes:
The SS Koi also has a wall thickness of only 0.5mm to enhance the rim weight and power of the yoyo. Stainless steel is a very hard material so a wall of only 0.5mm thickness is very hard to manufacture. The machining process is very difficult due to the ease of causing vibrations and deformations. Fortunately, the final product has none of these issues.
My latest design commission. Client liked how it turned out
Specs:
7075 + SS
Diameter: ~58mm
Width: ~50mm
Weight: ~66g
Looks clean! It reminds me of Surveillance by mowl but wider
I usually prefer rounder H shapes but the client wanted a V/H shape so I ended up with this sharp H shape. It works out since this shape is easier to pull off for its specs
I remember trying the OG Surveillance before, I liked it. Quite curious about the more recent Surveillance Max. Sounds more powerful & durable based on the description
Looks nice! Just curious how do you get design commissions? Is it friends of yours, people on the forums reaching out, or something else?
I usually talk with people interested on a customized design but do not have the time to learn CAD. I also talk with people who already have their own companies & we get to discuss design philosophies which I still apply to this day. I offer sketching a design and/or rendering, usually
I’m lovin the look of this. I want one
I designed a W shaped MR85-W4 yoyo.
I didn’t want this one to use the standard RBC pads, but a smaller custom size. Problem is, to do that requires a minnimun 5000 piece order.
To get around that, I designed this one to use a standard O ring size that is used in taps (fawcetts). Cheap, plentiful and very easily purchased at hardware stores.
Interesting…