That’s a cool shape and size! What’s the motivation/inspiration behind it?
honestly i just saw yoyos like the beater, and thought they looked nice, but a bit too organic and featureless, so i took my original fingerspin-oriented yoyo and added a bunch of inner rings and a small extension to the fingerspin divot, before adding a bronze wing to keep it stable enough for those offcenter horizontal tricks.
the name is one i chose to be in keeping with this yoyo’s inspiration
1 Like
Had a ton of fun designing and printing these using SketchUp!
The 2nd one from the left I got from a Thingiverse file but changed it a little bit.
(Unresponsive Performance Yo-yo by DominictBarry - Thingiverse). I got some ideas from some B!ST yoyos.
Most of them play surprisingly well but I’m wondering if I made the rim wall (if that’s what you call it) smaller and had a more gradual slope, if it would have less friction and therefore spin longer (see arrow)?
3 Likes
it should have a gradual slope to keep the string going into the gap properly, anyhow - do you have a cross section for this? I’d like to see it!
1 Like
This looks fun!
1 Like
first prototype, planning on 3d printing it. the yoyo is about 49 mm width and 58 mm diameter, as it stands the weight is 43 grams, but I want to change that to a more standard spec
4 Likes
Yup, here it is! They all have the same bearing seat design but here’s the yoyo featured in the 2nd photo. (I had to edit this yoyo after rotating the cross-section because of the cup design so this cross-section will not produce the exact yoyo if you rotate it).
Do you think it would need to have a gradual slope like the purple line in this photo or something different?
3 Likes
What causes a lot of friction in your case is the too low circular vertex count. Looking at your picture I would say your Yo-Yo has 20-24 sides but for a „smooth“ print you should use at least 90+ or tools like arc welder. All the little “bumps” will cause your yoyo to slow down when spinning and touched by the string.
What you have now is:
What you want is:
4 Likes
Hey, thanks! I actually made it 24 sides on purpose cause I thought it looked kinda unique how it reflected the light, but if it actually affects play then I probably shouldn’t have. I’ll make sure to make my next prints smooth! btw, is “arc welder” a SketchUp tool and if so will it smooth arcs that have the wrong number of sides (I designed other yoyos with 24 sides as well).
2 Likes
Yes, like that. Otherwise, the string can “rest” on that ledge instead of going in to land on the bearing.
2 Likes
If you like the style just make the outer part 24 and use a higher poly rate around the bearing so you get best of both worlds 
.
ArcWelder is G-Code modification tool which helps optimizing arcs. But not all printers support arc tags (G2,G3) so you need to check first.
I would anyway recommend best prepare your model as good as possible in your 3D tool of choice. Tools like ArcWelder are more to optimize at a later stage if necessary.
3 Likes
wentback to my drawing sketch to make some minor changes to make a tri metal construction starting on mono design.
6 Likes
I created a macro/plugin for FreeCAD to smooth out & speed up yoyo design spec calculations while tweaking a design to get the right weight, MMOI, etc.
Source code is here, if you run this as a macro in FreeCAD it’ll open up the drawer UI that lets you calculate all the info you need.
For it to work, the density needs to be typed into each part that you want to include, as a decimal value at the end of the name of the part in the document tree.
Here is a screenshot of it in use:
This has already made my iteration time much quicker for dialing in a specific mass. I hope other people can get some good use out of it, too!
12 Likes
This is awesome! 
2 Likes
That looks really interesting! What are the dimensions/weight you have planned for it?
68.92 grams, 6061 aluminum body with stainless steel rims, 46.4 mm width, 56.148 mm diameter
Interesting design I quickly threw together.
I’m planning on printing it with the cup face down and pausing the print after the “spokes” are printed and slide on some cool beads I have.
Since there’s a gap between the beads, will this cause too much air friction that it won’t play well at all? If so, would adding a wall behind the beads to stop air from going through help it?
4 Likes
Looks interesting. Thing I see as biggest danger is if the beads are just slightly of different weight and/or size you will end with massive wobble.
2 Likes