Very nice. When it comes to engravings, less is more
No, there is some guy trying to sell a gold/silver half swap Hypocrisy max on reddit b/s/t and I suspect he will still be trying to sell that thing in 2020
does anyone here have experience with plastics?
things like bearing seat inserts / Spacers for adjustable gaps, shrinkage, metal weight rings?
thanks in advance
I don’t but I am very interested in hearing about this!
Generally speaking I agree with more is less when it comes to engraving. There are exceptions though. Some of the older 888s had fantastic engraving.
Those are some very nice engravings indeed
If that’s the grail, do you have more detailed designs?
I was thinking about asking a friend of mine to build one.
Solid works designs would probably be better though.
It’s my own version of it that I call the “frail”. I’ll probably have to clean up the design first.
looks good but is it possible to get the original cads somewhere?
You mean A-RT’s CAD files? No. If you mean mine, then yeah, I can clean them up for you.
That’d be great. Just post it here when you finish
Here it is. The design is for 7075 Aluminum.
Be forewarned - while this might superficially resemble the grail, it’s never been prototyped, and I haven’t actually thrown a grail. It probably won’t play like one.
You should also probably fix up the silicone recess to match whatever pads/etc you have. I’m still sort of baffled about what dimensions they should have to be compatible with the most common pads.
here’s a prototype i’ve been working on, im hilariously new to cad though so i cant actually say how the design will play, if it’s machinable, or even tell you what the weight is as i have no idea how to add a bearing, axle, and response into the design. also, any ideas on what to do about the fact that you have to buy 5 if you want to get a throw prototyped? i only really want 1-2, but i cant imagine that anyone will want to buy some companyless amateurs first prototypes, so im really at a loss as to how i’m supposed to tackle this 500+$ pricetag that really isn’t necessary.
You should also definitely have your CAD software calculate the weight of a half. You can generally add about 3 grams + the two halves to get the assembled weight.
The reason for the high cost for small runs is that there’s a lot of setup time for the machinist & the lathe. The more you make at once the cheaper they will be, depending on how long it takes to machine each half.
As for your design - you should add a fillet to the edge of the rim to keep it from being so sharp. It’s also not very likely for your first design to turn out to be the one you want to make - I’ve made dozens and dozens before settling on one that I’m interested in producing (in a small run). Each one I’ve drawn has taught me how to work with another type of feature.
kk, then the specs (from what i can discern) are:
weight: 62.892
width: 45.022
OD: 53.898
again, weight is without axle, bearing or response.
also, that outer edge does have a fillet, but i guess it should be larger? although i thought that it didn’t really matter how large the fillet was because it’s still rounding something out that is otherwise infinitely sharp. but, that was just a theory i had, so tell me if that line of reasoning is incorrect.
That’s pretty reasonable, then. Just take another pass over those sharp parts, and measure the wall thickness everywhere to make sure it’s > 1.5mm at minimum (if using 6061).
Also, when you do your renders, use a softer lighting environment. It helps a lot, even if just doing it for fun!
The fillet might be too small. For an acute angle like that you probably want to try a 1mm radius fillet on that corner.
Here’s an example zoomed in from one of my recent ones:
yup, minimum wall is ~1.65mm. and i did some renders with the default soft lightning settings, but it was too dark to illustrate those 2 inner spikes, so i had to crank the brightness. what kind of settings do you have for your renders? they all look really good!