Further refinements on the only yoyo I’ve designed. Mostly cup modifications and a shorter axle.
| Specs | ||
|---|---|---|
| Diameter: | 55.4mm | |
| Width: | 42.8mm | |
| Gap: | 4.62mm | |
| Weight: | 66.54g | |
| Moment of inertia at center | 16,080 |
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This one is a beauty! I love the organic profile.
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This thread is the best
I haven’t had this much fun at work since I started bringing yo-yos to work lol
The tl:dr:
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Download 30-day trial of Fusion 360 CAD design ($500 per year after 30-days, I’m gonna need a solution to this in 30 days…)
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Use the ‘sketch’ feature as suggested by @MarkD, and draw a 2D profile of one quarter of the yo-yo (like you would in Paint, honestly)
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Download @MarkD 's bearing hub drawings from Post #157 for C-bearing (Post # 123 for D bearing) in this thread (thanks Mark!). If you use his hub, you need to ‘Make all Bodies Visible’ before you can ‘Revolve’ and ‘Mirror’. Simple detailed info here on how to Make all Bodies Visible: https://knowledge.autodesk.com/support/fusion-360/troubleshooting/caas/sfdcarticles/sfdcarticles/Visibility-status-in-Fusion-360.html)
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‘Revolve’ the drawn profile ‘full’ 360 degrees to create one half of a yo-yo
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‘Mirror’ the yo-yo so that you have 2 halves
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Spruce up the background in ‘Scene’ settings
Thanks for the info. It really is that simple to get started and create a final product. So good
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Great option for enthusiasts like ourselves!
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My first attempt
56 mm diameter
42 mm width
63 grams
6061 aluminum
Walls ~ 2 mm thick
The rims are complete cylinders, but it cuts back ‘in’ at 90 degrees - parallel to the side of the yo-yo. Not sure if CNC machines can do that. If not, then I’d take away some inner rim diameter to make up for the additional weight.
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Coldfire insp?
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I forgot about the Coldfire…
Good thing mine is 56 mm lol. Compared to designs in this thread and to the 54 mm Coldfire, mine looks heavier than 63 grams.
Also that is a great idea about getting a Coldfire for $100 and seeing if I like the design or not, before spending $500 on prototypes of a CAD design. Complete coincidence in design. This having a 2 mm larger diameter makes it a different yo-yo in my opinion.
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They can’t - the tools would have a really hard time doing that deep of an undercut.
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Also, don’t forget to add fillets (rounded edges) to all the sharp corners in your designs! The only place you can really want to have it be sharp is on an axle spike!
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What would happen if you didn’t add fillets?
‘0.41mm fillet in most cases, or higher’ - cheers, will play around with it.
Also I updated the inner rim, so now this is a feasible design. 63 grams, same profile as before.
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The yoyo will be sharp and uncomfortable.
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That weight distribution feels excessively tanky
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I’m digging the criticism, please rip into it, since I don’t want to end up with 5 bad yo-yos and be -$500
Also I have a Sengoku Coldfire on the way 
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ok, so it is highly recommended you add a decent amount of midweight. it can be easily done by slanting the inner rim inward or placing a chunk just right before the edge of the rim. some examples: CLYW Orca or CLYW Snow Lzzard type of deal. If you want to maintain the flat inner rim however, you will have to add a lot of cuts throughout the body just like Turning Point does to give a fair amount of mid or center weight. A disadvantage is it may not look as aesthetically pleasing to others. i also highly recommend rounding off the edge of the response area to avoid any string cutting issues.
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Why is midweight needed? I’m not agreeing with this design directive.
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Makes it more fun and adds float.
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You should definitely work out all the details of the yoyo very carefully before getting anything manufactured. Specifically, pay close attention to the response area and the wall around it, and how that wall transitions into the angled part of the gap. Take a close look at how your personal favorite yoyos did this area, and why - then see if that’s applicable to your new design.
Also, what is the mass moment of inertia? Does it make sense for the diameter and mass?
Definitely round off everything at least a little bit, though. If it’s sharp it’s not going to be fun to use.
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a good balance between center, mid & rimweight makes all the difference. Focusing too much on one area would make the play feel weird. For his design, he focused too much on rimweight. That would make the yoyo still feel sluggish even with a weight of 63 g. For a wider yoyo, adding too much rimweight makes it feel unstable. The yoyo will have that metal pipe-like feel to it. Evan Nagao mentioned this problem with the Edge prototype that had a similar weight ring design with a Draupnir.
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This may have been due to the differences in the diameter of those two designs. The brain expects larger diameter objects to resist rotation more than smaller diameter objects.