When using flowable silicone, how flat should the silicone end up when dry?

What is your favorite 19mm pad?

Just a small detail that might not seem as important as it actually is.

If you ‘do’ decide to use flowable windshield sealant or some silicone of a very similar viscosity; you have to first locate where you are going to put the yoyo halves; once you are done applying the silicone.

A perfectly flat surface is obviously the best choice. The more flowable sealants; settle with gravity; which can affect your results.

Think of it this way. Let’s say you make some jello. Then you pour it into clear glass custard cups. Then you put the cups on a slightly slanted tabletop surface. When the jello gets firm enough; hold a cup up to eye level. You will see that the jello has established the same tilt as the table.

Your silicone halves should obviously be kept out of the reach of kids and pets. I got a small digital level and located a zero dead flat spot in a kitchen cupboard.

Just a small detail to assist in the best possible results.

There are plenty of videos on silicone application. I will make one to give you guys another approach you may find interesting. It is not necessarily a better way. Just my method…

PS… With the advent of so many well performing stick on silicone response pads; I personally find less reason(almost no reason) to even use flowable silicone.

You all have to face the reality that regardless of what you think of flowable silicone. You can only honestly gauge its’ usefulness if the preparation and application is done correctly.

Some people have a Magical artistically flowing method of silicone application. And then are those chosen ones that can’t put honey on Cornflakes without getting honey on everything but the ceiling😳.

Video soon…

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Leveling off the fresh silicone with a credit card or spoon is what I usually do. I make a point to have solid contact with both edges of the groove so that when it comes time to clean off the dried excess, it doesn’t affect the edges of the pad making it all frilly.

Mine usually end up recessed slightly after they dry fully. Just as you kind of have to get use to the way different models respond [you know how some unresponsives are more responsive than others?], the same applies here.

Unless you really dig out a lot while it’s wet, the recess shouldn’t be hollowed so much that profoundly affects the response. I personally like my yoyos being a little less responsive. Just a little though

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Since everyone has been talking about how easy it is with flowable, I added some to an order I had on YYE. I had watched a few YouTube videos of guys using the red and how great it is but it was not easy for me to get right. I hope I have success with flowable. Red was great when I got it right but was a lot of work. I know part of that is the fun about it. I used to have a nitro RC truck and had as much fun fixing and modifying it as I did running on a track.

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Yo @codinghorror, you want the real silicone application test? Try RTV.

GOOD NEWS! After 24 hours of curing, it now works perfectly :ok_hand:

So given the statistical impossibility of you getting flowable silicone perfectly flat & flush … and how badly the yo-yo plays when the silicone ends up uneven and rubs the string … I think you definitely want to take everyone’s advice and recess that flowable silicone using a spoon!

And @stevejspins I don’t have a favorite silicone sticker response pad, they all seem to work fine for me, but you can get a variety pack from YYF if you want to experiment.

(The main reason I wanted to learn to do flowable is for older yo-yos with odd sized silicone repsonse areas – you’ll note that this one is a VsNYYC Skywalker so it takes a weird Hat Pad size. Another reason older yo-yos may do better with recessed flowable is because their gap tends to be narrower.)

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I wanted to add I’ve done this three times now on three different yo-yos (all older ones that didn’t fit standard silicone response stickers) and it’s pretty easy if you use the spoon method :spoon:

My main bits of advice are

  1. Thoroughly clean the response wells out first with isopropyl alcohol so you get good adhesion.

  2. After “spoon-ing” the silicone, use your finger to wipe away any shiny parts near the yo-yo cup edge before it dries – this indicates the silicone kinda escaped the well. Don’t worry, the recess with the spoon will prevent your finger from touching the silicone in the wells.

Stickers are still far easier – and don’t require any cleanup, or waiting 24 hours for the silicone to dry – but manual siliconing isn’t hard to do.

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personally I can’t afford a sustainable supply of pads, so flowable is the only option for me

I can find a set of magicyoyo 12 standard slim silicone response pad stickers for $5 around the web.

A tube of flowable is $5 and yeah you could probably do 10 yo-yos with that (if not a bit more), but… it’s a fair bit of work.

Also bear in mind flowable wears out MUCH faster than stickers, so… there’s that!

do you mean the wall? or the bearing seat?

The wall. The bearing seat you can clean out with a q-tip afterward when the flowable is fully dry after 24 hours. I accidentally got some in the bearing seat the last time I did this, and rubbing a q-tip in vigorous circles around the bearing seat cleaned it up nicely.

(I’ve been re-siliconing the older yo-yos in my collection, the ones without standard silicone pad areas, mostly G2s)

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ahh k I’ll keep this in mind. I’ve been meaning to silicone a yoyo as I’ve worn out the pad after about 5 months

from the pic, it looks like you’ve used too much.

as mentioned, try to remove the excess with a straight edge.

i haven’t siliconed a yoyo in quite some time - but my preference was for the silicone to set concave in the response channel.

mgodzilla

sunny…

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Why do all your posts say “mgodzilla sunny” in them?

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I use this method.

Came out pretty well IMO. I use Permatex 81730 Flowable Silicone Windshield and Glass Sealer.

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So are the majority of response pads one size fits all?

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Mostly, yeah. 19mm slim.

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