Sounds good, the Bloodcells look great!
It sounds better than good. Dreams come true!
This is truly a piece of art. Stunning.
#business
You know what I’d like to do?
Just turn yoyos for my job.
Man in a perfect world. It seems the main thing stopping you is being in Australia, no?
Not if I can send them to stores over seas.
True that.
I just saw a video about “Patterned plywood”, and it made me think of this thread.
Here’s the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XjxfVR2K_Ew
I don’t have a clear idea, but I can’t help but think there’s a way to use these tehnics to create some nice yoyos.
The quality of dowels in wood stores in Australia is woeful. It’s very elliptical. Near enough is good enough for most people here… but not for me!!
I work hard to turn extremely accurate yoyo halves, it’s been the top focus in my endeavour in making yoyos, but a poor dowel can make a perfectly turned yoyo feel vibey on the throw. With use, it usually smoothes out from the string pressure wearing it perfectly round, but I want perfection. So hand turned it is from now on!
This here is my own hand turned Tasmanian oak dowel which is the the standard wood used in my models now as well as some walnut. These will increase the quality of my yoyos.
I apologise for a boring post. I realised after I posted that noone is in fact interested in pictures of dowels. Lol.
I enjoy seeing and reading what goes into making a yoyo. A yoyo seems to be such a simple thing but the thought and passion that you (and other yoyo makers) put into such a “simple” thing is fascinating. After reading How to Run a Boutique Yoyo Business by @MrYoyoThrower I look at most of my yoyos quite differently.
That’s a turning post, not a boring post.
Awesome!
All parts of a master’s process should feel boring to them, and exceptional to everyone else. This is exceptional to me.
I never gave an update post on the epoxied axles.
I made a couple of Skinflints to test how tough the epoxy is in holding up to shock.
I made the yoyo under the poorest conditions for a strong hold; a short axle, merbau wood body (An oily, adhesive resistant wood) and no surface preparation to the axle or the hole in each half.
The first Skinflint took 3 VERY hard sleepers to the ground before failing, but it wasn’t the epoxy that failed… it’s was the wood! The axle came out without any damage, with some of the wood from the yoyo half on the end. That’s a success in my books. It looks like there may not have been enough epoxy at the bottom of the hole, with more it may have held without wood failure. Under normal throwing circumstances it would never have failed.
The second Skinflint was made under the same conditions as the first with all the epoxy administered at the bottom of the hole instead of an attempt to spread it all around.
After 6 really hard sleepers to the ground, the hold did not fail at all and stayed solid.
Also, epoxy does not leech into the wood and disappear like wood glue often does, it grips the surface really tightly. It also does not react to water or temperature changes anywhere near to the degree that wood glue does, so humid pants pockets will also not cause fails.
The science and all this testing is fascinating. You’re a yoyo professor or something like that.
Just FYI, my white oak KNack came apart yesterday while doing kickflips (no ground contact at all). I got some 2 part epoxy in the garage if that is what you suggest using now. The gap is 8 cards, right?
That’s the stuff. Yes, an 8 card gap.
I won’t trust wood glue anymore.
Also, let it cure for 24h before throwing.