So my yoyo berring has been becoming responsive slightly if i tug it up after i throw it it comes back up to my hand i was wondering if i should maybe consider cutting some paper into strips and spinning the paper between the balls of the berring to get some possible excess lube out or should i soake it in lighter fluid then re lube it? Im not sure yet i just dont want to test it multiple times and mess it up so if anyone knows the right way to clean it a reply would be greatly appreciated. Thanks
Clean it and don’t re-lube it. Lighter fluid should work.
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I dump mine in acetone and then used compressed air cans to clean out and dry when I am done. Lube is super hard to get right . I would say if that’s what you want to do that 1/4 of a drop should do the trick.
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When that happens to me I just lube the bearing. I de-shield the bearing and then put a tiny drop of lube on a pin and touch it into the bearing. I flip it and repeat on the other side. That keeps it unresponsive for me.
If you use acetone to clean it, find 100% acetone. Lower percentages, such as those bottled nail polish remover fluid, contain some percentage of water. If you use those, the acetone will evaporate but leave water behind, which can lead to rust.
I’ve just been struggling with a couple of throws bearings doing this as well the past few days…tip after multiple cleanings and much frustration…
New string makes a difference as well.
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A blast of compressed air should dry that out nicely. A blast of compressed air after lubing is a good way to get the bearing spinning and distributing the lube while getting any excess out. In general, I find a can of compressed air to be a really handy and effective bearing cleaning and lubing accessory.
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a very convenient and fast way is to use the fuel for the Zippo, in fact it is gasoline that pertento degreases and cleans but also contains a small amount of oil (which in the lighter helps the flame not to die in the wind) which leaves a layer of lubricant on the balls and relative races.
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Nice, I didn’t know that about Zippo fluid. I’ll have to try it out.
I typically use 80+% rubbing alcohol, dry with compressed air, then just leave it or add some graphite if it’s a little noisy. I regret spending money on lube, a #2 pencil does a fine job.
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i use 70-90% isopropyl.
excellent, I also prefer to use graphite powder for dry lubrication, it is a much more effective and longer lasting method, only it is a little more complex to make, especially for those who do not have much experience or manual skills.
The petrol of Zippo is only a fast and simple and still effective method.
First I remove the bearing shields and clips, and throw them away. Then soak in acetone for a little bit, hit them with the air compressor, add lube, hit them with the compressor again and spin the bearing with the air to spin off any excess. Then reinstall.
I’ve also heard sewing machine oil is a very good replacement for yo-yo lube. But I haven’t tried it.
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I haven’t cleaned a bearing in years……
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actually it is not necessary to do it often, on the contrary … but it is also true that sooner or later the need to have to do it occurs …
Dry lubrication? What exactly is that, I’ve never heard of it?
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I don’t know how you do that? I have a few that I have never cleaned or even taken apart, but most of them have at one point or another noisy and responsive.
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I have over 200 bearings available. To lazy too clean when I can just swap.
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Yeah that’s a much easier way. Haha 
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it is simply the graphite powder that you can get from the lead of a pencil.
You will have noticed that if you get your fingertips dirty with graphite dust, if you then slide them on themselves, they flow much better, this is because the chemical structure of graphite is made up of carbon atoms strongly bonded on a horizontal two-dimensional plane but not on the vertical one. , therefore each of these “micro-sheets” (which are graphene) slides easily on each other precisely because of the easy breaking of the vertical bonds, so to speak.
Therefore, once the bearing has been cleaned and degreased, with petrol for example, it is positioned horizontally and one of the side dust covers is removed (if one is provided, otherwise on one side it can be closed with adhesive tape, for example) from the high side open, the entire internal space is filled with graphite powder, then with a drill or a dremel, using for example a tool to remove the bearings, it is rotated very quickly for a few seconds, holding the ring still with the fingers outside, so that the graphite powder inside it “dirties”, with a uniform and homogeneous layer, the whole surface of the spheres and the channels where they slide, making their rolling and sliding work much more efficient.
Excess dust must be blown away with compressed air.
To easily obtain graphite powder, just get a mechanical pencil, leads and a special sharpener like this one in any stationery shop …
ps there are various examples of dry lubrication by means of powders, the best known I believe is the one that allowed Zenith to obtain the first high frequency integrated chronograph (36,000 a / h) in the history of watchmaking and for this reason called El Primero, precisely by virtue of the fact of dry lubrication with molybdenum disulfide powders. for those wishing to learn more …
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Thats very interesting, thanks.
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