A gradual taper will shorten your area of engagement to locate the bearing, so long as you’re only tapering a portion of the seat, it can definitely help lead-in the bearing.
Small tapers and chamfers are easy for a little grooving tool to do while in a lathe, Post-production it wont be so easy.
The reason why their tight is because it’s easier to make a smooth yoyo with a tight bearing seat than a loose one, and everyone in the community is/was obsessed with smoothness, so the machine shops went this direction to sell more yoyos.
You can still have a tight bearing seat and easy assembly, they’re not exclusive. My first prototype had a HORRIBLY tight bearing seat where it was next to impossible to get the bearing off, even with a tool. I tweaked it for production and while the bearing is still tight it can be removed easily with a multi tool, and the yoyo screws together/apart flawlessly.
I never unscrew my yoyos unless I’m cleaning or swapping the bearing. I always put in a wooden toothpick and pull the knot out. This isn’t to say a very tight bearing seat is acceptable or that you shouldn’t open your yoyos, but I do lean toward don’t open them unless you need to.
I do occasionally practice 2a, and I suppose I have to take those apart to get knots out. These yoyos often come part very easily though. Also axle knots seem pretty rare for me when practicing 2a.
Im personally not afraid to open any yoyo, if problems occur then i just wont buy from that company again
Tight bearing seats are a complete headache.
I bought an SE1 prototype (radiance prototype) and unscrew it to get an axel knot out. The bearing seat got absolutely knarled. I dont feel this is acceptable for a 120AUD yoyo.
The next day I had to remove the bearing for maintenance and that was even worse.
Companies just make huge bearing seats and its then ur problem after you buy it.
