Ok now that my shop/basement is a bit warmer today everything printed. Back with more technical questions. I’m assuming based off of your description that you used a 1/4 dowel that was meant to be a 1/4 inch dowel rod so the measurements for the length would also be in inches.
If those assumptions were correct then everything is glueing up. I cut the axle to around 1.09inches and got a gap width approximately .16inches or 4.2mm
A 4.2mm gap seems quite large for a fixed axle.
It ended up to wide, I’m printing another pair of halves since the glue had already set and they didn’t come apart nicely. I wasn’t sure if it was a string issue, type of wood that my dowel is, or the width but the width was the easiest to fix.
I usually use 2.6mm for most of my fixies.
.16 gap is huge, something is definitely wrong, at max the gap is suppose to be at max .1in as that’s normally standard. Each yoyo half has a .5in deep hole where the dowel rod goes, so .5 times 2 plus .1 equals 1.1in, so LM not sure why your axle is long? Sorry l don’t normally label my measurements, lm American and use the imperial system so when l publish the files l always assume that people would guess that everything is imperial and not metric.
Before gluing ld double check your axle measurement once you cut it to size, and test fit your axle with the yoyos halves to check your gap width and see if its to your liking, sorry again for all your trouble
No trouble at all man. I did check the measurements but not test fit 
, I figured I would do that in round 2
. According to my old college professors it was less about the choice in measurements and more about labeling the units 
.
Thanks guys, I got it assembled, mine ended up at 41ish grams. I have to figure out a way to add a bit more weight for my tastes but it’s a fun and capable fixie.
I’ve posted a yo-yo shaped like a cracked ice cube on my printables. For those who are so inclined. I cannot link to it directly here. You may need to enable NSFW and Political Content in your account settings at printables to view the model.
I made an account just to see it, that’s awesome hahaha
Maybe the YoYo can be…—
My description on there actually suggests a good secondary possible use for it.
I tried to also make it whistle but I haven’t worked that part out yet.
Them’s a fightin’ thro’
What if you made it heavy. Or make it a little shardier. To, y’know, let ‘em know they are, hmm, let’s go with ““welcomed""
I’m really glad your instructions include adding a string. As many long followers know, I’m still working out how a yoyo works. Recently learned that the string needs to be made into a bow
The original design has sharper corners but it hurtttt to catch. So I sheered the corners off to make it a middle ground between functional yoyo and projectile.
Printed at 100% infill in normal PLA filament it would be about 110 grams which is very hefty
Price of freedom
This looks like an awesome step toward planar printing
I liked how the prints were smoother but greatly disliked the appearance of the prints . Would print in 0.04 mm layers before using it unless at the moment. Maybe it will improve since its early stages.
That video did make me want a Voron so bad though. I just don’t want to build a Voron.
Yeah firmware planar is still early but it’s promising cause it shows to me that a combo of hardware and firmware can make those way cheaper in the simi near term. Kind of like how tool changers are starting to get popular and mmu are becoming more standard and auto leveling is sort of a default feature now. Exciting stuff ahead. I’m not ready to go downloading a beta slicer to play with it now but I’m looking forward to the day ZAA is a slicer feature like scarf joints
Oh toolchangers. Bondtech INDX my beloved, when will I find you.
I’ve been thinking of upgrading my ecc1 hotend from the default brass steel hybrid to a micro Swiss flow tech hotend. Tempted to get a diamondback but truely not necessary with what I print. But being able to cold swap nozzles easily and the CM2 CHT tech seems neat for additional flow rate. Can’t decide if it’s actually worth it or not though. The copper steel hybrid doesn’t seem much better than the brass hybrid maybe slightly higher thermal conductivity and the nickel plating seems nice for reducing sticking.
Idk might be a money sink for not much performance gain but also maybe a quality of life upgrade.
Anyone have thoughts on such things?
Was also thinking of getting a .6mm nozzle as I’ve always gone with .4 just to make the few times I do abrasives clog less but that’s been a thought in my head for a while
So 0.6 is nice for some stuff but can make yo-yos look worse. For example my first waffle stompers were done on a 0.6 and the last gen were done on a 0.4 diamond back. Print quality looks much nicer.
As far as plating goes honestly it never makes a difference. If filament wants to stick it’s gonna stick. I’ve done teflon paint on top of coated copper and still had it stick. The temperature stability of copper vs brass is also generally minimal for PLA temps. You will get better results by printing a temperature calibration tower and selecting the right print temp over copper.
CHT nozzles are some pros as cons. Pro - they melt much faster which means you can print faster. Con - they are more prone to clogs, especially with abrasives or wood.
The one thing I will say is that cold swappable nozzles is a true quality of life improvement and not a minimal gains for high cost upgrade. That’s a true game changer. Even if you never swap out from 0.4 being able to remove the nozzle cold to fish a stuck bit out or whatever is nice.
