I have. I have not gotten them to work well in an unresponsive, but the unresponsives were also printed. I would maybe retry with a non-printed yoyo to eliminate variances.
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I imagine if the print was a bit fuzzy it might act as a rough internal part of a fixie
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It yo’s and it glows.
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Special Interest goes brrrrr. Files now available.
Nuka Cola Cap Yo-Yo
Nuka Cola Quantum Cap Yo-Yo
Sunset Sarsaparilla Cap Yo-Yo
Perfectly Preserved Pie Yo-Yo. The whipped cream pullstarts are to die for.
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Any chance you can post these files elsewhere?
Hello All! Some of you already know me, but you may not know that I have, of late, been inducted into the fantastic world of 3D printing. I’ve even tried my hand at designing something (non-yoyo related; a functional print to solve a problem).
I believe I’ve already mentioned that I’ve got a 3D printer elsewhere on this thread, but I thought it was high time I become an active member of this thread
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The pie is especially amazing!
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Definitely something new for the wishlist now, haha! 
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It’s almost February, be prepared with my newest design, the Duncan world class yoyo. This design will greatly help with any long spin time tricks thanks to it’s extra rim weight, and to my friends on the 0A discord server this yoyo is the one that l cracked the code to with its all new response system.
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Is it designed for pla or petg. Also, props to getting a printable inverted starburst.
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I print all my projects in pla
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I made a 3d printable axle sleeve for the manta ray and hurricane, results might very on how well it will play as pla is not that great here due to its small size, if you end up printing it l highly suggest something more heat resistant
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Few more questions since I didn’t see settings on the link.
Infill? I’m assuming 100% since it’s pla
Layer height to get the starburst right
Surface and infill pattern: normally I do concentric for yoyos but again starbursts
Print direction: inside-out or outside-in assuming this would affect the axle area.
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Usually not 100%. Usually you want to hit your goal weight for the throw. For wood like densities I usually start around 60% and tweak up or down.
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Infill. Dealers choice. Concentric is good for yo-yos but fixies not so sensitive. Grid or gyroid is usually fine.
Inside out vs outside in I’ve never had a strong need to choose based on axle hole. I’ve only needed to touch these if I had a significant overhang.
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I’ll be honest l’ve never really added instructions to my files unless it’s important for the pieace, most people print there stuff a lot more different than l would so it’s pretty modular and really depends on what you want to do. I only have a A1 mini so l leave alot of my prints on stock settings besides maybe gyroid infill with 3 wall layers.
Depending on the yoyo l normally aim for about 40ish grams including both halfs as it’s an ideal weight for me
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Oh and for layer heigh, it doesn’t really matter since it will print the starburst regardless, l find that layer height only really ever changes the amount of layer lines you want, l always print at .16 height
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I’m a strong proponent of Adaptive Cubic infill. It adds geometrically uniform angled crisscrossing walls /\X\/ kinda. The adaptive version does it uniformly to make the weight distribution even throughout. It’s usually faster and quieter while printing than gyroid, and better than grid because the walls don’t intersect with each other so you don’t get collisions or blobs. Because the walls are angled uniformly it is also significantly stronger than gyroid versus dings and smacks.
All that being said if the infill is gonna be visible I do gyroid or honeycomb because those look cuter.
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