Sorry to hear that. Remind me what you’re printing on? The one thing I’ve been most happy with on my Bambu is that it does a great job of layer 1 failure detection and spaghetti detection. It’s not entirely resistant to errors but it covers a large swath of them pretty automatically.
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It’s a Bambu P1P, which I have done a DIY P1S upgrade to (did it before the P1S or P1S upgrade kit existed). I also have a single AMS. It’s been a fantastic printer, it has close to 4k machine hours on it and this was my first major issue.
Sounds like you’ve got an X1C?
I’ve bought and resold a P1S combo using MakerWorld points, and currently have enough points saved up for a P1S (not a combo). I’d like to use points to replace my P1P at some point, but not sure if I’ll get another P1S combo to have 2 AMS, or go for the X1C to use with my single existing AMS.
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Yes. I have the X1C. It’s been pretty awesome.
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Critical hitstacks. I’m working on a version with numbers and then will post it up if it’s printable.
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Here are my dice Hubstack caps:
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Printer is back up and running! Still need another iteration or two before I’m ready to publish these Honeycomb yoyos. Working on a fixie version, MR85 version, and an A version, as well as a counterweight. Need to tune the supports for the fingerspin cups or figure out a nice way to clean them better. I couldn’t find a sharp chisel that was narrow enough this morning.
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Supports and dimples may honestly never get along. You might find it easier rounding out the cup to avoid supports and just have a few mm of bridging at the top instead.
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For the fixies bridging instead of supports is definitely the way to go. For the bearing models with the seat for the nut I don’t think it’ll work, but those are also easier to clean up the part that shows.
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Yeah the nut portion shouldn’t be too hard. I usually stick an allen wrench through the axle hole and the support just pops right out. (Working on my first bearing design as well and have made about a dozen or so that way)
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What’s the advantage to using supports in a bearing design for the nut area? I just print with out supports.
It depends on your design, if you can print without supports and bridge then great, but not all designs lend themselves to that method. I’m doing small bearings like mr85 and smaller so the nut can’t sit right below the bearing, there isn’t room even for an m3 nut. So I have an extended axle hole and the nut is installed from the back. Screenshot example below, you can’t bridge that design because of the axle hole through the center of the square nut hole.
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I tend to use sacrificial bridges to clean up a design like that with a floating fastener recess. I was working on one tonight but haven’t printed it yet (and haven’t decided that I like it yet either 
).
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Some recent learnings I thought I’d share regarding designing and printing bearing type throws. Most of you have probably already figured these things out, but maybe it’ll help someone.
I was having issues with the bearing posts being fragile and breaking off easily. My initial thought was to use a 3mm axle instead of the standard 4mm to increase the wall thickness of the bearing post. Unfortunately, the 3mm threads aren’t quite up to the task, and strip way too easily. I ended up going back to the 4mm axle, and simply making the bearing post very short, and with a slightly looser fit so that removing a bearing is less likely to pop the post off with it.
As a side note, the crazy good inter-layer bond strength of TPU means it’s not an issue with TPU prints. I only had issues with PLA and PETG.
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Similar experience here with the exception of m3 hardware which has been holding up well for me so far. I’m using m3ns square nuts and m3-.05 grub screws.
I am working on an mr85 ORK and I wanted to print one out of the cork material but the bearing seat snaps right off. Luckily my standard material HTPLA is holding up to bearing seats well so far but I do only stick my posts up 1 mm because I hate excessively tall bearing posts with a burning fiery passion.
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Instead of incorporating the bearing post into the body of the print, what YJYoyo and some of the other big yoyo 3D printers figured out is that having a separate bearing post piece works very well. Haven’t had any issues with these breaking, using an m4 hex bolt axle.
The same bearing post style but on a responsive yoyo.
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Very interesting! I keep getting distracted looking at the pic because they don’t clean their supports off the print before they ship them apparently so I keep staring at the support interface 
but the idea is very smart. I’ve also been working on a kinda similar idea that uses swappable bearings seats so you can replace the seat if something happens to it or swap an mr85 for a d or a bearing.
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Oh the pictures aren’t from yjyoyo, these aren’t sold prints. I just wanted to show the bearing post concept taken apart because it works extremely well.
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My bad! Totally misread that! I like the idea though, I’ve had a few bearing sizes give me trouble, ones smaller than mr85 for example. This could potentially help.
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In the spirit of also being late for Modern Responsive March here is my latest design for your printing pleasure. The ORK redone for MR85 bearings. I left a list of hardware needed on the printables pages for those that wanna make their own.
It is no longer snaggy since it’s not relying on angry teefs for response but the rims are still relatively sharp and angry by design.
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I have been using M3 fairly well. I’m using an m3 lock nut and m3 grub screws.