i used drano to try and remove the ano
on my gnarwhal cus it was scuffed and damaged
i thought a polished version would look nice
unfortunatly it came out looking all bumpy and rough
not sure what to do now
someone help
thank you
http://i1252.photobucket.com/albums/hh570/MrKrazytt/2cea71c5.jpg
bumpy and rough how? like the aluminum is etched away or its just black/brown and rough?
I just dranoed my dash and left it in there overnight because I forgot…lol, and the rim is eroded away…it looks kinda cool, but I can sand it out.
post some pics would be nice.
Cheers,
After you use a chemical to strip a yoyo, it comes out tarnished
I see videos and stuff
but peoples throws come out at least smooth
and they just need to b polished
mine came out black
and had a hard coat that wouldn’t come off
I used naval jelly and that took the black off
I feel like there another layer of ano on.the throw
Cus dome parts are smooth but others are
bumpy and pitted
Ile put up some pics in a bit
get some steel wool and water and rub the yoyo with the steel wool and with a little water and it will clean it up some. Pics would help and when you post them I can give you some more help. BTW How long did you leave it in the Drain-o?
i left it there for 30 min first but
the ano became dark and hard and wouldnt come off
so i would pull it out and check it
every 30 min
ide say by the time i was done
it took like 4 hours then the next day i used
naval jelly and that took the black off in 45 min
but the whole ordeal left it like this
In a weird way i think it looks pretty cool but i would try what i suggested with the steel wool.
30 minutes!!! Holy smokes, when I strip I leave it for less than 2 minutes. Maybe I am just using stronger stuff.
Not too sure what people are using now a days, but back when I stripped yoyos I used an oven cleaner, with TSP. Worked like a charm, only if you masked the bearing seat (or else the bearing seat would get eaten by the stuff!
Finish kind of looks cool actually, could just be the pictures. But at any rate, you could try and steel wool or satin it like people said, if the pits are too deep, theres not much you can do, because when you sand you are essentially taking away metal to the lowest parts of the pits, to remove it and make it smooth looking again if that makes sense.
it looks ok
but i wanted the polished look im sure
its still
savable
first time doing this
and not sure what to expect plus i think the drano i
used was weak 
il try the steel wool
but im not sure how i will smothen out the inside
At this point, I think steel wool is a no go, you need something stronger like a low grit sand paper (300).
You can mount it on a drill and spin her up but just be careful.
how would i do the inside of the throw
I think it would be interesting to just polish it up as it is right now and see how it looks
I actually kinda dig how it looks right now. Kinda of a “moon” or “asteroid” finish. I’d say seal it and play it! If it plays smooth right now, it’s fine.
Back to the OP and his excessive stripping times: I never see or hear of people leaving such processes unattended for any real length of time. They all seem to say to supervise the process.
i like to thank you all
for enjoying my mistake
lol
i threw it and it feels ok it just likes to eat strings guess im gonna have to sand it
what do u mean seal it up
i bought some brasso
to polish it once im done sanding it
a little smoother
By sealing it up, you can have it re-anodized, but have it done clear so your “work” isn’t covered up.
Yeah, smooth down that bearing seat. That’s a critical area.
whats used to seal it up
Instead of using a color for anodizing, they do it clear.
Oooooh I didn’t even know u could do that
:0
Or you can clear coat it.
Could you post pics after you smooth it? I’m curious to see how it turns out.
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