Creating BAZ/CHAZPADS for older throws

I started looking on here for the bazpad/chazpad guide since I always found them to perform a lot better than old style dif pads. You’ll notice on older throws like anti-yo that they don’t fit your standard 18mm pad and instead took thin sticker pads.

This is the guide copied from another forums old post that “IV” had made. I couldn’t find it on here so wanted to have it here in case someone else needed help with making some decent pads for their old throws. Of note is that plastidip before it has dried into pad form is dangerous so handle it with care. People have also made similar pads by using strictly plastidip as the sticker but mixing with naptha makes it easier.


First of all, lets get this out of the way. Baz pads, or chaz pads; whatever you want to call them are all made from the same chemical compound. The true identity of this compound is unknown however it is sold in many major hardware stores under the copyrighted name, “Plastidip”. This chemical compound, when mixed with another compound known as “Naptha” produces a substance that can be poured, spread lightly and made into pads of decent thickness, durability and texture for response applications in yoyos.

The problem with this is that the true ratio of Plastidip and Naptha has never been released to the public. It seems as though considering neither of the makers of these pads have no true secret ingredient; the actual process of making the pads is the true trade secret. Knowing this, breaking the code on what that ratio is might just further insight as to just how thick this compound should be.

Luckly for you, over the past few weeks, I have conducted many experiments with these chemicals, dry and wet in order to figure out this mystery among many others. There also seems to be the little detail as to how the pads cure without causing air bubbles from the Naptha. When the Naptha evaporates during the curing and/or hardening process, the vapors escape through the substance, causing it to bubble somewhat, leaving small blemishes on the surface of the pads. The less Naptha is used, the less bubbles. The more Naptha, the more bubbles. You get the point. The makers of chaz pads seem to have found out a method of drying this material without causing air bubbles, more than likely through some sort of pressurized process, either that or they are utilizing the raw Plastidip, without the Naptha and simply flattening it, rather than pouring it; although this would still cause some air bubbles, just not as many.

Regardless, the pads play the same, they just don’t look as nice. This is sort of like any homemade item; technically it’s the same thing, it’s just small differences. Now lets get to the heart of this blog, how to make them.


Through my experiments with the substance, this is how I create the pads myself.

Tools / Ingredients::

-Plastidip, any color, found in hardware stores.
-Naptha, a thinner or solvent found in the paint isle at most hardware stores
-An X-acto knife
-A 1/2 inch hole punch
-A 3/4 inch hole punch
-A completely flat piece of polished metal, fiberglass, acrylic, or plastic
-A spoon, preferably one you don’t need anymore
-An adhesive, 3M spray does work but only temporarily, once it dries, it looses it’s adhesive properties. Use transfer tape or a sticker maker.
-A ziplock bag
-A Large Mason jar
-An old friction sticker, .015" thick.
-Wax paper
-Duct Tape or Masking Tape

Open the can of Plastidip, here you should figure out that once you open the can, there is no way to seal it. That may have been a problem, however. If you’ll look at the ingredients, we have a Mason Jar. Pour the contents of the can into the jar and stir. Begin to add Naptha into the mixture, the finished product should be roughly the same consistency as a freshly poured glass of buttermilk or hot syrup, however only get it nearly that thick.

take your spoon and put sample dips of the substance onto a small sheet of wax paper, adhere your old friction sticker onto the paper. Continue to add more Naptha into the solution until you can effectively dip the substance onto the wax paper and it be the same width as soon as it levels out.

Throw the wax paper with the samples on it away, keep the sticker.

Take out whatever large board I told you to obtain, whether it be glass, metal, plastic or what have you. As long as it is long, completely flat and somewhat polished, it will work perfectly. tape off a square area the size you want the finished area to be and begin to dip the spoon into the mixture and onto the surface. Spread as you need to, but try to keep it as uniform as possible. Place the board on a completely level area and leave it.

Go to sleep.
Wake up.

Take your x-acto knife and cut out the square area you dipped, now slowly but carefully take the knife and go under a part of the mixture, only a bit just so you can grab it. Once you get a firm grasp, begin to peel it off. This stuff is tough, so don’t worry about breaking it easily. It doesn’t tear when dried.

Place the old friction sticker onto it and begin to make stencils of where you plan to cut your stickers, punch the holes out, smallest first. until you have as many as you wish to make. Use any adhesive you wish, anything works. Put them on a yoyo, and well…

yoyo with it. Isn’t that nice?
Enjoy.

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pics?

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Looked around for pictures and couldn’t find them but I found bazmonkeys original post . It appears to be before they moved to plastidip though but thought it could help people to make more basic silicone stickers.

You need:

** Silicone sealant/gasket maker
** Wax paper
** Masking tape
** Adhesive transfer tape/sheets (more on this later)
** Hole punch/scissors/X-acto knife

So:

  1. Tape a good sized sheet of wax paper to some flat surface, to work with.

  2. Lay, oh, 6 or so 8"-ish pieces of masking tape (sticky side down) on the wax paper, flush next to each other, so you end up with a good 6"x6" or so area of masking tape.

  3. Squirt a good dollop of silicone onto the masking tape, right in the middle (I know, no exact measurements here. It won’t take more than 1 or 2 trys to see how much you actually use; this ain’t rocket science.).

  4. Lay another sheet of wax paper on the blob of silicone.

  5. Squish it down with a book. You want to end up pressing it into a 1mm-2mm thick puddle of sorts. Again, it doesn’t really matter how thick it is, and you’ll quickly get the idea if you actually try it as to how thick it needs to be (I haven’t tried, but you could probably save silicone and make this rather thin, as silicone doesn’t wear very quickly at all).

  6. Take off the book, and smoothly and carefully pull off the top piece of wax paper. Yes, some of the silicone will stick to it, but more will stay on the tape. The idea here just to pull it off so that the surface of the silicone blob on the tape is somewhat smooth.

  7. Wait a few hours. In my experience this weekend with mid-80’s and low humidity, it only took 3 or 4 hours to be plenty cured.

  8. With an X-acto knife, slice the silicone along the strips of masking tape, so that you can peel off the tape strips with silicone on them.

  9. Cut out a friction-sticker-sized piece of tape-backed silicone. After messing around with different methods, the easiest was to trace the shape out with an old sticker and a marker, and cut it with an X-Acto knife.

  10. Apply adhesive to the back of the sticker. You can buy adhesive transfer tape online (3M makes it, among others), in rolls as thick as your masking tape (prodigious!). For the sake of messing around, Jo-Ann’s sells sticker-makers, which are essentially the same idea. A starter thingy and a 20ft. roll of adhesive was $10. Refills are $5. $5 for about 120 stickers isn’t half bad(it takes about 2" of tape to just go through the little device; if you did more at a time you’d get more out of a roll). I honestly haven’t even tried just using the masking tape’s own adhesive, but I don’t think it’s strong enough. Maybe…

  11. …Tada! At this point you should have a sticker that’s about as thick as a dif pad and as grippy as a duncan sticker.

No idea how long they last; I just made the first working silicone ones this evening. The silicone should last a LONG time; it’s how well the silicone adheres to the masking tape that’ll decide when they wear out. So far it works, well, exactly like a duncan sticker, which is nice in a recessed FH0.

The original idea was just to put adhesive on a sheet of silicone and cut out stickers, but alas, not many things adhere to dry silicone, including new silicone. The adhesive simply wouldn’t stick. I then tried using a thin cloth to cure the silicone on, then put adhesive on the cloth, but again, the silicone seeped through the cloth, and it too wouldn’t hold the adhesive. Masking tape just happened to work, is dirt cheap, and happens to hold the silicone rather well, too.

Another idea I was working with this weekend was Plasti-Dip, an aerosol rubber coating, that I sprayed 4 or 5 coats onto wax paper, cut out, applied adhesive to, and used as stickers. They came out like, paper-thin, and were hard to work with (they permanently deform when they stretch). However, I managed to get one on an SPR kit, and it’s held up the last day or so through a good couple hours of throwing, and has a dif-pad sort of grip to it. The same brand makes cans of liquid rubber coating, for say, dipping metal tool handles in to get rubberized grip. That stuff allowed to dry in a flat dish may yield thicker more manageable stickers, but I haven’t tried yet.

A tube of silicone is $6, tops, and should last for over 100 stickers depending on how much you waste with each batch (larger batch = more area in the middle of the blob = less wasted silicone per sticker), and how thick you make it. Masking tape is at the dollar store with wax paper, and $5 gets you around 120 stickers worth of adhesive. That’s $12 and tax for about 120 stickers… a dime a piece. I’ll let y’all know in a few days how the sticker is holding up…

If they hold up even close to as long as even a duncan sticker, for the price, that’s not bad for a poor-man’s sticker that works WELL. These are grippy enough to use in Speedles for looping. And if that rubber coating ends up working, that’s even cheaper by weight than the silicone is, and would have dif-pad-ish grip.

Not bad for a weekend of messing around with silicone and sticker machines…

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And a final guide from Shox as well for making Glue pads. I stand that the baz/chaz pads are the best but understand handling the material or finding it could be difficult for some so wanted some alternatives.

  1. Alright, I’ve decided to make my own thread about this great response pad idea I came up with a while back. I have been talking about it in other response pad related threads so I finally got the time to make a thread of my own :stuck_out_tongue_winking_eye: These response pads are pretty easy to make, really cheap, play great, and they last forever
  • And to those select few of you- Before you start make sure you are o.k.’d to use the glue gun/scissors/etc, and have an adult around. You know who you are. ;/

  • What You Need

  • -A couple sheets of printer sticker paper (The kind I use is made by ‘AVERY’)-Pic-

  1. -A hot glue gun --With PLENTY OF GLUE STICKS–

  2. -A rolling tool (round pencil/highlighter/pen etc)

  3. -A flat surface (smooth counter top/tile floor)

  4. -You will also need something to put on top of the hot glue while you roll it flat. It has to be something that the glue won’t stick to. I recommend using the Non stick protective peel off of one of your sheets of sticker paper. (Explained Below, “Getting Your Supplies Ready”)-Pic-


  • Basic Idea:

  1. What you are doing is relatively simple but with this amount of steps involved some people may get confused. What you are doing is squeezing out hot glue onto the top of a sheet of sticker paper. While it’s hot you flatten it out so it’s thinly distributed over the non stick side. When it’s dry (give it a good 30 seconds or so) you are going to cut it into pad size. Then you can take the protective peel off of the bottom of the pad and stick it in your yoyo
  • I wish I could make this thread shorter but I know there would be a lot of questions if I’d just leave it at that ;/

  • -Getting Your Supplies Ready-

  1. What you’ll want to do first is plug in your hot glue gun and get all of the supplies ready. One of the problems with working with hot glue is that it dry’s pretty fast and it sticks to almost anything. What I recommend is that you make yourself various stickers on 1 sheet of sticker paper first. The idea is to fill the sheet with as many pictures as you can so you won’t waste it. Make sure you put it in your printer the right way (blank side down or else This Could Happen| So yeah, my brother had to learn the hard way X/ ). The reason I need you to do this is because the peel off side of the sticker paper is the only thing I have been able to find that the hot glue won’t stick to. If you don’t mind sparing a sheet then just take off the protective peel and throw the sheet away. But if you do decide to use it and print yourself the stickers you will have to save the peel first and cut out your stickers with the sticky side uncovered.
  • Just so you know so far I have tried nearly everything… wax paper, suran wrap, and aluminum foil, just to name a few. But in the end they all end up sticking to the hot glue… So DO NOT try to use these or anything else as substitutes to what I have recommended. If you want to test something out just squeeze some of the hot glue on it and see if it sticks. You wouldn’t want to risk ruining a whole batch of pads right?


  1. -Cutting guide/layout-
  • There’s actually one more thing you can do that will make this a heck of a lot easier. I didn’t have the time to add this in yet until now, but what I did was make this sweet layout.(Right click the picture when it comes up and select ‘save image as’) Everything is sized right according to a standard setup for your printer. So far i’ve tried it on my friends printer and on all three of our printers XD If it doesn’t work right for you or if the size is off let me know. ;/ If you’ll notice on the sheet there are many round formations of the pads (seven each). When you start putting the hot glue on them make sure you are putting it in the center of the said groups that way you will be able to cover them all. I find it best to cut them out first and then start on gluing them. And just a tip put a regular piece of paper under it since some glue might run off the sides. In my pics used to represent the steps below notice one last thing, when you cut them you cut no further than to make no white appear on the pad. That means all of the jagged/blocky edges need to be cut off. When you’re done it will be a perfect fit

  • Ok, now that that’s out of the way… Here are the steps!

  • -Step 1-

  1. Make sure all of your supplies are set out for you and be sure you plug in your glue gun. Lay down a sheet of sticker paper blank side up.(The sticky side has the protective peel that usually has some sort of printing on it) Once you are sure the glue gun has been heated long enough bring the gun over and squeeze the trigger about 5 full times in one spot on the sticker paper(Keep in mind that it will make a circle about 5 inches in diameter once it is flattened out)DEPENDING on what size glue gun/glue sticks you’re using. Mine is the full size, if yours is mini then i’m guessing about 7. I’d suggest some expirimenting on notebook paper.
  • -Step 2-
  1. Next you must quickly grab the sticker peel you got earlier and lay the smooth side onto the hot glue. After that pick up your round pencil or pen, etc, and roll the glue as thin as you like. I prefer making them pretty thin because they are pretty grippy if you use a thick one. You should never have to use two in your yoyo. One should be good but feel free to do what works best for you. It’s all preference.
  • -Step 3-
  1. Once the hot glue is dry (30 seconds or so as stated earlier) you can carefully pull off the peel you used to flatten the glue. At this point you have the sheet of sticker paper with a circle layer of glue on top of it.(If you’d like you can repeat everything that you just did and make multiple circles of glue on the sheet) What you want to do next is cut out the section(s) of paper with the hot glue on them.
  • -Step 4-
  1. Finally the last step! All you need to do now is cut them into pad size. The best way to go about doing this is with a small pair of scissors that are on a swiss army knife for instance, or a compass circle cutter. If you don’t have either of these just cut them out with a regular pair of scissors. You can first make some squares out of the sections of hot glue covered sticker paper using an old response pad as a guide so you don’t cut them too small(if you’re not using the layout, I just do this

  2. ). Then simply take one of the squares and cut out a circle.{Extra Pics: Top and Bottom} Make sure it’s the right size, then fold it in half ‘Taco Style’(hot glue side out) and then cut out a half circle. Unfold it and touch up the inside of the pad that way it’s the right size and Voila! You’ve made your own SHOX-PAD!

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Bazmonkey first posted his bazpad process on TheYo forum. Unfortunately that forum is no longer available. Thanks for resurrecting this process.

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For sure, I wanted to get at least a pad guide up since it seems most of the older pads are sold out at this point. This will at least let people have a general idea of how to go about creating some working pads for the old school throws they pick up since just siliconing will fall out nearly instantly.

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@Tobiyo89 @d4nnyb0yy

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Interesting read.

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Thanks a ton for this; bookmarked for a future date

Added this to the useful mods and maintenance topic:
Useful modification & maintenance guides – clean, repair, tune, fix yoyos

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