could someone make a guide on splash painting yoyos?

ive wanted to splash paint my g5 for a while, but i cant find any guides. i figured it would be helpful for me and other people if someone posted a guide, thanks :)!

you cant really splash paint metals because it will mess up the anno.

i dont really know what you mean by messing up the annodization. texture? adhesive?

ok. u cant splash paint a metal yoyo. you need to strip it of anno then reanno it with a splash design. you need a rig to do this and experiance.

I would like a guide to splash paint CWs/Plastic yoyos, though, if anyone has one or can make one.

well ,you could make a splash with glue onto the yoyo then dye it.

how do you dye a metal yoyo though?

Basically, electric, special dyes… and alot more that I can’t remember. I don’t know if I should link to another forum, but has a guide to it… I’ll post the link when I find it in their forum.

I suggest reading [this page].

OH! If you want a splash, go to

He isn’t taking jobs…


can someone tell me on here how to splash paint a counter weight?

He isn’t taking jobs…

i mean like, do it at home splashing, but nvm. got my 888 today n’ i love the blue. dont wanna splash it :slight_smile:

i mean like, do it at home splashing, but nvm. got my 888 today n’ i love the blue. dont wanna splash it :slight_smile:
final post:
A lot of people have a very faulty image of what anodizing really is. So here is a short list of the major misconceptions I read on the forums.

* Anodizing is not like painting. Its not a layer put onto the surface. It is a layer that is electrochemically formed within the surface. So basically the original surface is altered.
    * The anodized layer has an average thickness about 25 microns. The human eye is unable to detect a difference this small, so as a result, anodizing itself does not affect the look of your yoyo. A scratch/ding, however shallow, will show after anodizing. Always. It may be less visible due to the application of colors, but it will still be there just the same.
    * Anodizing is colorless. We usually talk about anodizing as a color layer. Well, simple anodizing only alters the composition of the surface, and does hereby not add color. However, slight tint changes are possible depending on the alloy type. Coloring is an optional step, used when aesthetics are important.
    * Not all metals can be anodized. Aluminium and titanium are anodized abundantly in the industry, but other metals that will also take anodize are magnesium, zinc, … Steel is an example of a metal unfit for anodizing. So forget about your CU, St. Eel, … Also, since you have to put your part in an acid bath for about an hour, it is usually not a good idea to try anodizing metals that will be corroded by the acid … Note that not all aluminium alloys are equally good anodizing candidates as well.

What is it

Anodizing is the formation of a layer of oxide on the surface of an aluminum piece, using a bath of dilute sulfuric acid as an electrolyte, by charging the piece electrically. This is where the name comes from: the piece being anodized is attached to the positively-charged pole of the electrical circuit (i.e. the anode). A second large lead or aluminium plate is usually also immersed in the electrolyte, which becomes the negative ground pole (i.e. the cathode).

So what does anodizing actually do? Well, the electrical charge and mild acid oxidize the surface of the aluminum, forming microscopic crystals of aluminum oxide. This oxide surface is very hard, much harder than the base material, but very thin, usually averaging at about 25 microns (0,001 inch). The anodic layer on yoyo’s is one of moderate thickness. This is known as Type II anodizing. There are other types, which I won’t discuss here as they are not as interesting for a yoyo finish. The layer as a side effect also becomes porous and can now take on pigment if needed.

The anodic layer can (and usually will) change the dimensions of the part being anodized. The addition of oxygen to the surface layer makes it thicker, usually adding a few microns thickness to the surface. This doesn’t sound like much, but it can make a difference in some tight fitting pieces. While most aluminium alloys average around 35 to 40 on the Rockwell C (hardness) scale, the oxide layer is closer to 52 to 55. The anodizing prevents further oxidation, so the piece wont rust or corrode any further, and also makes the surface much more wear and scratch resistant.


Industrial anodizers do not offer much flexibility. Machine parts need only good mechanical properties, so the aesthetic part is usually limited to a few solid color choices. Also their services are maily focused on huge runs.

Luckily, some companies do specialize in the aesthetic aspect as well, with their main applications in the paintball gun, yoyo and crossbow scenes. Gruntbull being the most well-known among the yoyo community. There’s also 125customs, and, well… me.

So what techniques are there? Although the above mentioned companies offer far more possibilities in techniques and colors, there are only so much techniques that are feasible from a commercial point of view. Basically, the more labor intensive, the more it will cost you.
An overview:

* Fade: This technique is easily achieved by dyeing the part in the lightest color, followed by dipping part of the surface in the darker color until you get the desired look.
      As seen on: M1, Project.
    * Splash: Mass-introduced on yoyos by CLYW, now abundantly used by other companies as well.
      Usually a mask of rubber cement is dripped all over the surface, possibly with a first color already applied. After drying, the color is bleached off and the second color is applied. After sealing, the mask is removed and you got yourself a nice splash design.
      As seen on: BVM, Peak, Hectic, DNA, …
    * Acid wash: This effect is achieved by applying bleach on a colored but still wet surface. The bleach spreads out unevenly and after applying a second color, you get a very unique look. Another possibility is letting the surface dry and then treating it with bleach. This gives more defined edges between colors. This technique is often referred to as sponge acid wash.
      As seen on: recent CLYW stuff, …
    * Masking: Simple logos, lettering or a combination thereof can be cut out on stickers and masked off in order to get the design reproduced in the anodized layer.
      As seen on: my custom stuff.

There are off course lots more possibilities. As with everything, the only limit is your own imagination, but you have to find somebody than can and wants to do it. Some random examples: maple drip, swirl ano, speckle dust, …

excerpt from:

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