Just been throwing a couple of months with responsive yoyos…Yomega Raider and Duncan ProZ.
I seem to be getting a fair amount of string twist within a week of installing a new string…is that about normal?
What is the best way to get rid of some twist? Do I just let the yoyo dangle and let it un-spin itself, which doesnt’ really seem to work? Or, hold the yoyo and run the string through my fingers and untangle at the same time? None of the above?
If the yoyo starts to feel “rough” on the string is that an indicator of too much twist?
If the yoyo goes down and returns as an angle, could that be string twist or just bad technique?
I’ve just started to notice that if I throw real hard, sometimes the yoyo will return up the string without me even having to jerk it. I assuming this is “normal” and up till now I just haven’t been throwing hard enough?
Is there a site or set of videos on-line that specializes in helping a new guy like me understand some of the more basic stuff? I hate to keep bothering you guys with elementary questions.
As we throw ( w/ right hand ) the yo gets turned repeatedly to the right , this causes the string to tighten. Throw a ufo to the left, so yo yo spins to the left to loosen up string. Watch the Learn section about string tension. I’m a newb too- but I think I got this right. In a minute someone else will be here to tell ya if I’m right.
1: The string will either gain twists or lose twists depending if you throw left or right handed. It’s a fact of life with the yoyo.
2: Getting rid of these extra twists, or getting twists back? This is called “managing string tension”. For now, your method works the best. Yes, please do remove the string from your finger, drop it and let it figure itself out.
3: Feels rough on the string? Could be vibe, could be string falling apart, could be a lot of things.
4: Typically, the yoyo should go down straight and come back straight. Your throw starts it. But, let’s say you throw straight, you can screw that up by not landing tricks nice and clean. Sometimes the bounces off the inner walls of the yoyo can throw the yoyo off from straight. You’ll get better with time, so don’t sweat it. There are also things you can do to correct htis.
5: Throwing hard and it pops back? Yeah, it happens. It’s not that you’re throwing TOO hard(did the string snap? Then no, it’s not too hard), but you kinda gotta give a bit of “cushion” so the yoyo will not BOUNCE at the end of that string. It’s a feel thing you’ll develop. Keep at it, you’ll get it.
6: Videos? Yeah, there’s a few. Check out the LEARN link at the top of nearly every single page. Or just go here:
If you have questions, no matter how “elementary”, ASK!
Alright, one more if I may. I think I’ve heard that to properly lube the bearing in a responsive yoyo…to keep it moving easily, that I should use a thick lube. That seems counter intuitive to me?
Wouldn’t a thinner lube provide less resistance and therefor allow the bearing to move more freely?
What kind of lubricant are we talking about? Something I can buy cheaply at the hardware store? 3 in 1 oil, cooking oil, graphite, 0-30 motor oil? Or does it have to be a special Yo-Yo concoction?
Or motor oil, cooking oil, I’ve heard not to use 3 in 1, or graphite. Generally many yoyo manufacturers make a oil. yoyojam makes really good oil. But research the threads here at yoyoexpert and you will find tons on oil. The search bar is your friend!
I’ve used 3 in 1 on my loop 900s since I’ve had them and had no problem.
I don’t remember who it was but I remember someone said they used wd40. I’ve never personally tried it, and I’ve heard a lot of people saying not to use it. but 3 in 1 should be fine.
You have to think about how a bearing and response system works. A yoyo comes back up when the string binds up enough inside the response area to effectively attach the spinning yoyo to the string. The spin of the yoyo is what causes it to then climb the string. When you pull the yoyo up, you’re providing slack for the string to begin binding inside there. That is “responsive”.
The “slower” a bearing is, the more variation you have between the speed of the inner and outer track. The inner track, connected to the yoyo, wants to stay fast because of the tremendous force the yoyo’s body is placing on it. But the outer track that’s connected to the string essentially spins freely when slack is applied, and it begins to decelerate quickly. This is what causes the string to wrap around the outer track, and eventually bind up the yoyo.
So, when you’re looking for a responsive yoyo, you actually want it to spin less freely. You want to bung up the bearing such that it spins fast enough to sleep, but decelerates quickly enough to be responsive. That’s the reason for thick lube in this application, and thin lube in an unresponsive setup.
There are many suddested homemade lubes on yoyo bearings. I use trumpet valve oil on my bearings. It is a thin lube and it works well. As far as a thick lube that is homemade, I have heard multiple people suggest 3in1
I’ve used trumpet valve oil and it works fine it seems to be almost the same thing as some lubes
(⛷ Noisy Lurker ISO the Elusive Snow Weasel)
I think calling yourself stupid is a bit harsh, especially as a beginner. If I recall it wasn’t long ago that there was quite a bit of misinformation about WD40 on the forums. The word was that it contained water and would sieze the bearings up. This was bad/incorrect information of course. I’m sure many read such info and came to the same conclusion.