different people will say different things (duh)
but personally, do what you gotta do
it is def NOT okay to over screw jojo…
I guess it depends on the yoyo. I’m always scared to unscrew my TT2 because the axle is so dang short I’m worried I’ll strip it every time I try to put it back together.
No but if your not careful screwing it back together then yes and if it’s not your yoyo always ask first
NO…
They can strip, and the more you unscrew it the more it can eventually wear down parts. I’ve had it happen to a magic yoyo, but that was a k2 with a brass bearing seat, with too short of an axle with an unresponsive c bearing. So, soft metal, with way too little thread engagement. I haven’t had it happen to anything else though. Side effects theoretically fix this, as you can just buy another set of SEs if that were to somehow happen.
Ok so unscrewing a yoyo isn’t bad. What’s the verdict on tuning vibe out of a yoyo?
Are we still using loctite in our axles?
I’ve only ever used loctite on a yoyo that had minor stripping and even then only one side.
Tuning vibe by flipping or swapping out the axle can be a thing. It’s more of a thing with a material like wood that is different density through out and turning the halves a quarter turn can have a meaningful impact. Metal yo-yos that’s not really a thing cause density is way more uniform. Plastic it depends on how it was made but maybe. Vibe on a Bimetal or hybrid is usually the rims more than anything else
As for stripping a yoyo I’ve seen kids strip yo-yos or more often over tighten a yoyo pushing the axle through a side or ripping out the threads. Most people don’t over tighten and cross threading is rare as you can stop if you feel resistance and back out before causing damage but if you’re in a hurry I could see it happening.
Ok. No loctite. Decent chance you can tune. And you can unscrew yo-yos freely.
But how do you know what bearing size comes with your Freehand One of choice?
Don’t know when it happened, but deathgrip axles are now a thing, it’s a bit unclear what some manufacturers think about this.
Any new yoyo I unscrew straight away before I drop or ding it. If it screams, make a recording.
8mm axles are a bit fiddly, but not so bad that Loctite is necessary. If it makes maintenance easier then do what you want, OD still use it.
I wonder if the idea of not unscrewing your expensive throws started in ~2008 when 44re:creation (later renamed to YoYoRecreation) would explicitly tell you “don’t unscrew our yo-yos”.
Maybe. I think the first run Stardusts were duds, like Ti axles and humid storage environment or something. Someone here will know.
None of my old yoyos had this problem. Most of my new ones don’t either though, to be fair. I’ve only heard about it since I got back into yoyoing in 23
Ok so are response pads uniform now? Is siliconing a yoyo still the hotness?
Most are 19mm diameter, some are different thicknesses, CLYW pads are larger, One Drop Flow Groove pads are extra thick, Dif-e-Yo used a unique pad size… different bearing sizes use different sized pads also. So to a degree, yes C bearing pads are somewhat standardized, but there’s a bunch of exceptions
Ngl I never had a yo-yo axle stripped until like post 2020, and I’ve been yo-yoing on and off since like 2006 at least.
And they were all short axles from smaller brands.
Since the look of the flat hub and finger spin divots have been popularized, companies have been using 8mm axles with soft 6061 aluminum, couple that with a tight bearing seat, and you create a perfect scenario for the threads to strip sooner than later. The only way around it is to seldom unscrew your yoyo, but even then a good enough impact may knock the threads off given how little thread engagement there is in each half.
Generally most folks just use standard 19mm pads. There are a few dedicated to the silicone game and a cult that uses only ultra grey for extra hard and least responsive material.