I don’t mind wear and tear at all.
But visible fading after maybe doing a trick 20 times on a $90+ throw (local price) while other throws show no similar wear is not cool.
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By the way, those defects will mostly manifest close to the rims and not in the center (looking at fingerspin cups). This is because the velocity of the body at the rims is higher (for most yoyos at least by a factor of 2-3).
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That makes sense.
obviously it happens but it is not a normal thing or that it can happen to objects that have received a anodizing and coloring of quality .
this is a window exposed to the south-east side of my parents’ house, this is how it looks today, (both the shutter and the window are anodized aluminum, clearly) … they were installed when I was very few years old, the first years '80 (I am 45 today), and here it is not just exposure to light, but to atmospheric events such as frost, heat, rain, smog, etc.
clearly I’m not saying that they are miracles and that compared to when they were new they have not faded but if a yoyo placed on a desk for a few years loses its color tone, these had to be reduced to bare aluminum or worse.
Returning to the discussion, which in any case does not deal with color fading but with the removal of material, I believe that if we are not talking about problems that occurred in the production process then we are talking about choices of its parameters.
For those who have seen the discussion on anodizing that I did, you will certainly have noticed that the color rendering faithful to the tonality of the pigment was obtained with only one yoyo (the Sleipnir) this because it was the only one that has an oxide thickness. around 10 µm (if the formulas I use are correct … I don’t have instruments for such accurate measurements) and obviously with cells with not very thick walls (this is given by the current density that is set), all the others that should have thicknesses ranging from 25 to 35 µm have returned very different colors from the dye, this is because the ratio between dye and oxide layer is more favorable to the latter (and probably thicker pore walls because created with more time and lower density) and this has a strong impact on the refraction of light rays, but it also has a strong advantage in terms of surface hardness and greater resistance to scratches and abrasion (I believe I have reached the maximum limit with the Leggenda that it should have a thickness greater than 45 µm and is not able to receive dye as the pores are totally closed and its gunmetal color is given only by the luminous refraction on the layer of oxide but it is “full oxide” therefore very hard!).
All this to say what? that if I commission an anodizer to carry out a very light anodizing and which therefore gives me brilliant, faithful colors, he will do it that way and moreover, it will also cost me much less, given the significantly shorter times it will take to do it but, maybe to save money we will go on anodising of 5 µm which are only aesthetic and for objects “for display” for which “mechanical stress” are not foreseen
One of the yoyos I love the most is the Auldey L3 (it was my very first “modern” yoyo) a well done yoyo in my opinion but for example one that I no longer own today suffered damage to the color just for hitting a frame in wood of a painting … and they are all so … very beautiful and very fragile … not for a defect but for a choice.
This happened JUST recently to my Pyro X !!! And it’s the first and ONLY in a 70+ collection!!! And has honestly made me reluctant to thumbgrind anything else 
but honestly, what can you REALLY do with tthumbgrinds anyways lol as in you don’t really see em incorporated into combos
Idk this could just be coming from my saltiness of the situation and I’m just taking it out on thumbgrinds 
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Just out of curiosity, was it a blue half?
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Yea It was lol
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Fingernails > blue dye.
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For my case, the retailer communicated with YYF and ended up giving me a partial refund because YYF indicated that it shouldn’t have happened.
I promptly invested my refund with a brand new Yoyo friends Koi with the same retailer which will be shipped to me tomorrow.
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great! There are two of us waiting for a Koi !!! Mine is green 
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Heyyy!!! I want a Koi for my ano rub off troubles 
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Red/black splash for me. 
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It seems to be an issue with blue. I got an “A” grade Saturday Market Deep State a few months back and when I went to clean it as I do every throw I get; the blue came off. Something to do with the sealing process.
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I don’t know what to think anymore, because there may be a sealing problem but it can’t only concern a color … it can concern a part of the cup if it is not well immersed in boiling water but I don’t think it can happen in professional anodizing system and in any case it would affect all the colors of the area, since in this color they are all mixed.
The only certain thing is that various manufacturers will have to start doing a nice briefing with their anodizers…
On mine it’s both blue and orange. So not a single color.
Do you happen to have any raw yoyos? If so, did you notice any tarnish or oxidation effects there that go beyond normal oxidation of raw aluminum exposed to air?
Some people tend to have very corrosive sweat that could accelerate this problem.
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but sweat, and I still see it as a very difficult thing, can at most oxidize the aluminum alloy, it cannot oxidize … the aluminum oxide, which is now a chemically stable element …
Which is precisely why corrosive environments are needed that deplete the industrial oxide layer, e.g. aggressive sweat.
Is it unlikely? Yes, since the thumbgrind grooves are very well protected from skin contact. Anyway, it would be interesting to see if there‘s a correlation.
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