Anodizing questions answered by jasonwongzero (Loaded Yoyos)

Did I read this correctly… technically anodizing is the whole process, but each color/layer is a separate dye-mask step?

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Yes that is correct. You anodize the yoyo once and then everything else is layers of dye, mask, dye, bleach, stencil, etc.

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I got some stripper should I just use a rag and try to wipe it off or let it soak in a bowl of some

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Do the science and post a topic with your results!

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What do the directions that came with the stripping chemical say to do? I’d start there. That stuff isn’t something to do trial and error with if you aren’t completely familiar with it.

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As vegabomb suggests, you should start by reading the instructions! :slight_smile:

Commercial strippers are chemicals and stripping creates fumes. Follow the directions, use gloves, goggles, etc. Stripping starts a vigorous chemical reaction that bubbles rapidly and could splash your face, especially when you are observing or handling the yoyo halves.

As I mentioned, there are many many resources that will give you precise directions on how to strip, anodize, dye, seal, etc. Everything I learned was self taught via information available on the internet and YouTube (coupled with lots of experimentation and practice). If you bought a commercial stripping agent then it should have come with directions.

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For aspiring anodizers, I’ll offer the following things I Iearned over the years:

  1. If you just want to mess around then you can get by with cheap stuff. (Computer power supply, aluminum cathode, RIT fabric dye (only some colors), oven cleaner for stripping, aluminum racking, etc.) I figure a homebrew diy setup would run at least $150 if you knew exactly what you needed. I’d consider this a ‘home science experiment’ and wouldn’t ever anodize a good yoyo this way.

  2. If you want to anodize consistently and have quality on par with what you see on production yoyos, it’s totally possible on a small scale, but you will need more capital. Dedicated benchtop power supply, commercial stripper, dyes, sealant. Lead or preferably titanium (what I use) cathodes, titanium racking, reverse osmosis water (for which you will need an RO filter), tubs for all your dyes, drying equipment to speed things up, etc. All told I conservatively spent $2000 on all the anodizing equipment, probably half going to consumables like acid, dye, water filters, etc. You could probably start with $500 for just the very basics. Google Caswell anodizing to get started.

  3. You almost certainly won’t make money. A quick review of all the people who were anodizing at one time and did it for less than a year is testament to what a pain it is. :stuck_out_tongue:

  4. All this said, if you enjoy doing it for the art and not the money then I encourage you to give it a shot, just be sure you know what you’re getting into and be sure to take precautions with everything. There were times where I did not heed my own advice… Splashed weak acid on my face (when dropping yoyo into bath), inhaled fumes, inhaled aluminum dust, burned hands on either acid or boiling water, lol. You will hear people say this all the time, but seriously this isn’t a hobby for kids.

  5. It is super rewarding to finish a project that looks great. I think anodizing best suits people who are patient and obsessive about detail and also have an eye for design, art, colors, etc. Anodizing is a funny mix of technical and artistic requirements… One can be great at execution, but not have an eye for design and your yoyo will turn out properly anodized but ugly. Or you can be a great artist, but not good at the math required to calculate the current and timing requirements or handle each step with precision and your yoyos will turn out ugly due to ano flaws. (or not anodized at all)

Hopefully this is helpful!

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woah, how are you still alive? jk
But it does sound like something dangerous!

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Chemicals could dissolve the different elements of the alloy at different rates, I could see that causing pitting (much how “Damascus” has the lines in it) because say Ferric acid etches softer steels faster than harder steels. Would this be a safe assumption?

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Yes this is true. If you strip for too long you’ll get an uneven pitted surface, which is why you need to check the yoyo regularly.

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I just bookmarked your page, I love your work. It feels like such an art form.

I really love the Captain America, if I had the Infinity Gauntlet like Thanos i would so go back in time and snatch one of those Caps. just saying.

I know you do not take on projects anymore, but do you have a network of other Anodizer’s who you feel comfortable giving a referral? I have a Playmaxx Raw Fusion I would love to have anodized.

Thank you again for making yourself available for questions.

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Thank you!

In my experience anodizing titanium creates too thin an oxide layer to create vibe. Same is probably true of etching as well unless you’re doing something really crazy deep… at which point it might be considered milling as opposed to etching, lol.

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Sorry buddy I’m not connected really with other anodizers. Of work I’ve seen Monkeyfinger stands out to me as doing very high quality work but I’m not sure if they take on individual jobs. I remember chatting with them many years ago when they were first starting out and I always appreciated that they loved anodizing and pushed for new techniques.

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