That’s a hell of a shelf. I hope it’s sturdy lol!
I hear ya! I appreciate the story!
I’m cautious, for sure. I’ve been throwing mostly Hades and Collapsar lately, heaveyweights are my jam and this one is fun!
And of course you right to warn people, but I also think heaveyweights aren’t nearly as “tiring” “sluggish” or “rock-like” as I tend to read about.
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I agree with the slow and sluggish/rock like thoughts.
I personally found my opinion somewhat changed once I decided to wrap a strip if leather around my yo-finger, to lessen the stranglehold of the loop on my finger. The focus immediately changed from killing my finger to throwing the yo-yo, lol.
Heavier yo-yos command a higher level of concentration in making deliberate moves and keeping string/gap alignment.
….Baseball players warm up with collar weights on their bats, allowing a more controlled stroke by slowing down the movement.
Also applies to yo-yos. Heavier yo-yos can contribute to establishing better fundamentals in form.
Then shifting from 80+ grams to 66, can show very Positive results.
PS… several months ago Jake from G2, released a small batch of 100 gram yo-yos.
I honestly wouldn’t even consider that heavy of a yo-yo, lol. But it wasn’t a novelty. Jake can seriously throw some yo-yos… And he wouldn’t sell a bucket of ‘heavies’, just to make a buck.
Heavy yes? Heavy no? Yes and no. Just depends on the mission.
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If Chris wrote it then ok, evidently he’s the only one of the 14 that doesn’t vibrate…
Not only, because it is in perfect condition
What does “in perfect condition” mean?!?!? Why did he sell the others already dented or with obvious damage?!?!? 
I’m not sure condition makes something 1/1. I used to own a royal bison peak, with no damage - does that make yours 1/2?!
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First of all, this is a first-run Peak from 2006/2007, when Royal Binsons weren’t officially sold. Second, it’s in perfect condition—there are no issues with the color. If Chris said it’s 1/1, then it’s 1/1.
Sure, you might have used one before, but it was probably a second-run Royal Binson, or maybe even the same version I have. 
What I find funny is that instead of building a great community, you’d rather argue about a 20-year-old yo-yo. Maybe that’s why so many people have left this forum—because you’re just not very welcoming. I think you’ve forgotten what a hobby is supposed to be about. It’s meant to bring people together, not divide them. But thanks to attitudes like this, things are the way they are.
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Kinda over the top reaction… I think it’s normal to discuss the minutiae of details of the yoyo’s rarity in a thread about peoples’ rarest yoyos. You have interesting information on a rare yoyo and instead of chatting about it normally youve got an attitude about it. Asking if you really have a 1/1 or if it’s just the best example of another run is kinda expected. I don’t think most people have information on this yoyo and you seem offended that anyone’s interested. Go learn a trick.
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Well, at this point I’d say it would be interesting to ask @caribouchris why this Peak should be 1/1 (could you kindly post a photo of the box with the wording)… also because I’ve never heard of the existence of the first and second versions of Royal Bison. Yes, it’s useful for gaining historical information on a yo-yo from 20 years ago, and that’s the interesting and constructive aspect of the discussions, unlike “how you perceive the situation”, which isn’t at all interesting.
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Gorgeous!!! I love the natural color of titanium, and even though the anodizing process on it is very simple, I wouldn’t do it on my yo-yos, with the sole exception of the cracked finish, which I absolutely adore! I can’t figure out what they use to “mask” the latticework… if you notice from this and other photos on the RSO website, the vertical part of the hub doesn’t have it, and often there are dots instead of solid lines, as if the mask was lasered in from above… I don’t know how they do it, but if I could figure it out, I’d try!
p.s. Did your cracked versions come out like this as standard or were they made later by someone?
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I’m sorry that you feel my interest in this matter is somehow at odds with building a community.
All royal bison peaks were first runs, so I’m still not understanding what makes yours 1/1, as there were indeed around 14 or 15 produced. They were never ‘officially sold’ due to the limited number, and prominent vibe. I don’t recall them have any issues with the colour, though it’s never been reproduced very well, as this was done by Pioneer, before CLYW switched to Gruntbull. It’s very possible yours is the only one without such a notable vibe, like the rest had, and that’s what makes it unique.
As I said before, condition has nothing to do with rarity, so I don’t understand what point you’re trying to make. The Royal Bison I owned before didn’t have a box, so certainly not the same one.
Here’s an old photo for fun:
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No one asked you
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Thank you, and that’s why it’s one of one 
I’m starting to think Peak owners are the yoyo equivalent of Corvette boomers
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I think the guy is saying its 1:1 because its not vibey… which is his personaly made definition he can keep while the rest of us have a different definition.
I also want to announce that all my yoyos are 1:1 as well. Got very unique dings all of them. 1:1 by my definition.
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In a public forum, you don’t need to be asked to share your opinion or comment on a thread.
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I’ve wondered if pad printing could be used to apply something that would mask the anodization. One giveaway could be repeated patterns on different yo-yos. But it seems like it would also be difficult to get the pad to make contact with that concave section where there is no “cracking”.
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Hi! I know what pad printing is, but I’m not sure whether such a fine grid can be achieved with that technique. I’m also not sure whether a pad could adhere well to the entire concave surface of the inside of the cup, or the convex surface of the catch zone, without making the slightest smudge on such thin lines, but logically, it seems unlikely to me. In the case of the Martian in the photo, I think they used a voltage of around 50-52V to obtain the gold in the cracks. Then, after “masking,” they continued, reaching 63-65V to achieve the intense pink. Clearly, the grid, remaining isolated, was not affected by the increase in voltage.
Thanks anyway for the food for thought.
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