I was unaware bearings needed a ‘break in’ period. Can you elaborate?
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You can also try spinning it at the end of a pencil for a couple minutes. This is what I do.
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Or you know, you could just put it in the yoyo and break it in that way.
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Tried this. Its a good way to make unresponsive yoyos responisve - no mstter how little is used.
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They will not rust. I have several 10 year old bearings that I’ve cleaned many times and never once lubed. The sounds you hear, are tiny microscopic fragments of the metal getting ground on the balls. This is harmless and with regular cleaning, the sound will be minimal. “breaking in” has nothing to do with the amount of lube, when you clean your bearing, you’re degreasing it, this has absolutely nothing to do with breaking it in. “breaking in” actually refers to the slight wear that develops in the metal, the balls become polished, the grooves open up, this allows the bearing to spin more freely. You can play on a lubed bearing for a year and never break it in. These are actual facts, no use arguing, just google it.
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It is not the actual bearing that “breaks in”.
It is the lube that “breaks in”.
example:
I overlube a bearing and its responsive,
I play with it for awhile and its unresponsive, thats where i can assume that the lube broke in.
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No, the lube is actually getting burned off, which leaves a residue behind and then it will need cleaned or it will build up… “breaking in” is actually the process of wearing something down to the point where it’s performance is accelerated… When you break in your response pads, your not burning the lube off, you’re wearing the edges down so its smoother on the bind. Same goes with the bearing except you’re wearing down the balls to a groove in which it will spin more freely
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There should be a 4th option for dry lube. Dark Matter would fall into that category, as it’s a delivery system for dry lube.
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oh, i have gotten my definitions wrong. Thanks for the info!
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What do you mean?
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Use yyf performance oil for long spins without noise.
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Dry lubes are micro particles that reduce friction in a bearing. It’s similar to graphite lock lube, but the particles are much smaller, and are not graphite, I don’t believe.
The first versions available were powder; which is tricky to work with, because it takes such a small amount to do the trick, and it’s easy to over apply. Dark Matter solves that problem by suspending the power in alcohol (at least I think it’s isopropyl); which does a great job of metering and distributing the powder.
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Lube is a liquid right? We have dry lubes also?
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Google is pretttty smart.
Not all bearings are created equal - there are 17 grades of stainless steel, some are more resistant to corrosion or the deterioration process of any material over a period of time. This includes all of the complements as well as the race.
I like how you explained the beak in process. It is important to throw the bearing prior to lubrication however some bearings require no break in period specifically bearings that are plated I.e. NSK platinum and gold. The gold over time will shale off small fragments and when you hear the result of this it’s tome to change the bearing. You could clean it but it’s going to keep breaking down. Same goes for the fragments of monofilament off of a non played bearing.
Good info bro
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Well, I just bought a turbo bumble bee circa 1997 off eBay (that’d be 20+ years old) and its bearing was definitely rusted. Fortunately the rust appeared to be on the outside surface.
The good news is that an old rusted bearing can be tossed in the trash and easily replaced if need be, but I would definitely recommend lubing unless you a) totally don’t care or b) just prefer a loud bearing in play.
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Got a few different kinds of lube but I like Dark Matter the best.
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Are you talking about a non stainless bearing? Not all corrosion is rust and since it was on the surface you could’ve cleaned it up with 1000 and 2000 grit sandpaper. You would’ve had a nice bearing to go with that yo-yo.
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Only after the Brick and the Hissy Fit, then maybe the Hyperspin. In specialty colorWATs of course.
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Yes, just blow it out like any other lube. works fine.[
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You’re overthinking this to a large degree.
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