Hello,
I am new to yo yoʼs with bearings. I been doing a lot of research, however, even though I saw somewhere that parts are parts, is it really though? Could, I replace a size E bearing with a size C without changing the axel in return drill a new size of hole in my yo yo to fit a new axel? Here is a picture of what I am working with in regards to the D1.
If possible, I’m not sure it would be worth the effort. In my opinion, I would pick up a yo-yo with the specs you are looking for.
The Yoyofactory One is a great beginner yo-yo with the C-bearing.
Also, I’ve heard great things about the new SnapBack. It has long spin times making it easier to learn new tricks!
I am just using it for parts. I bought it for 2 dollars. So, would you know if that is possible to use the c bearing on a axel that used e?
I don’t believe so. The inner circumference of a C-bearing is too big and additional spacers/parts are needed if you change the size of the bearing seat.
awesome, thank you. ill do some stuff with the axels and measure it out.
I think I may try ripping the guts out of a Magic Yo-yo K1. 8 ball KK bearing, it would be more compatible with some of the bearings available. The stock bearing inside is a 8 ball KK bearing.
I found a kit on amazon, * PACKAGE INCLUDED - 2 x 8 balls unresponsive yoyo bearing , 2 x narrow C responsive yoyo bearing, 1 x stainless steel bearing removal tool, 2 x size M48 stainless steel yoyo axles, 2 x size M410 stainless steel yoyo axles, 8 x responsive silicone pads.
Seems like maybe this would be a better choice for that classic I want to use. 
I will have to change my gold foil decal design I made into a vector. Since D1 may not be the way to go as you mentioned earlier due to the lack of sweet E choices. 
Maybe I can change the D1 to a K1, the GHZ though…I based the design after the old yo yo im modding as I prefer the old school wooden Duncan vintage feel.
Old yo Yo
The answer depends on whether you want unresponsive or responsive play, and what kind of tricks you’re going to do.
C bearing or even half spec C (narrow) will not return as smoothly as an E bearing for a responsive yoyo, simply because on a bigger bearing you need more dead string to roll before the response starts to catch. When you throw the yoyo, this will cause the yoyo to “drop” early (that “thunk” feeling at the end of the string), however, this also let you stack more strings before it starts to snag or bind.
If you plan to do more complicated tricks, then the bigger bearing is great, but if it is for a tug responsive “classic” type of play then I would suggest using E bearing instead (or maybe A which is in the middle).
Duncan used to sell “mod spacers” that I believe uses A bearing, not sure if they discontinued it.
That was very helpful, thank you. I actually did buy one of those pro z as I wanted to replicate the mod spacers with wood. The part I been thinking hard about is how I want to add a smooth intention to one side of the yoyo to finger spin it and anchoring the axel without using a bolt that is connected to outside the yoyo. I might have to get creative with the bolts. 
Something I didn’t learn to after I started this thread is it isn’t about the thickness of the axel as much as it is about the spacer placed on the axel for the size of bearing I’m going to use, which is a relief. Unless I misunderstand this concept.
A C bearing won’t fit in a bearing seat sized for an E bearing.
Very true, it would have to be interchangeable right? Kinda like the one in the pro z?
