Proper axle torque

Apologize in advance if I missed the info while doing my research in this forum. Perhaps this is a recurring topic that’s already been discussed. I didn’t find the expert answer I was after…

AXLE TORQUE -
How tight (how much torque) is suggested when installing an axle on a modern type throw? 1A, nothing exotic, the type that uses M4 set-screws. Finger tight? Hand tight? I know the threads can strip, which is what I just did to a little iYoYo Passion. I blew out the threads and bearing seat with air and fixed using a longer (10mm I think) axle. Also used a tiny amount of anti-seize grease and wasn’t too messy at all. Made it feel really smooth. Ordered another anyway…

I’ve noticed that all new throws come with a loose, finger tight axle and I’ve been using a yoyo tool (hex) to get them much tighter. Maybe just “more snug” using a hex key. But I’m afraid I may be overdoing it. Maybe they’re shipped loose bc they’re to stay loose? Also is loctite, V4M, anti-seize, graphite, etc. recommended? I’m happy to see specific Nm or ft*lb etc.

Sorry in advance for the lengthy question. I’m open to any suggetion. And thank you for your help.

I just turn them until they stop turning. Only yoyo I ever stripped was my first unresponsive duncan echo 2 but that was a common occurrence with that yoyo. I never use a hex key on the axle.

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I wouldn’t use a hex key, and just tighten by hand until it stops. I don’t try to force anything. Also you can loctite on one side of your axle but it’s not needed.

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Just tighten the yoyo enough so the yoyo wont come apart. Don’t crank the yoyo or use tools to get the axle in tighter.

I would only use the hex key to remove the axle if I need to remove or clean the bearing

What do you mean the yoyos are shipped loose? Are they so loose that the yoyo will fall apart unless you tighten it?

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I use the long end of a hex wrench just to make sure that they thread in smoothly and are fully seated. I never tighten them, and I haven’t had any loosen.

I used to work as a bicycle mechanic where torque specs were available for everything and grease/anti-sieze/thread-lock was the norm. Doesn’t seem to be the case for yo-yos.

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It’s put together and the halves are fine. But I always clean the bearing and service it myself. Often they aren’t optimized imo. The axle is always loose. Very easy to screw and unscrew. But set fine I’m guessing. Not a problem. Just how they come.

So generally people would not strip an axel by hand tightening it unless they worked in fields that made their hands very coarse. Even then I would say it’s unlikely. What is more common is twisting after the two pieces are together to the point you strip it.

Lastly, you have in 3A well-machined yoyos (mainly) whose tolerance is so good that when they bang together can unwind the axel a bit so you need to make sure after collisions you check to ensure both halves are still connected tight. Don’t know if you 3A but this is something I only recently found out and was interesting to learn, as with bad tolerance in the axel post this is less common as it doesn’t move, but with very good tolerance the collision can cause it to unwind.

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I find that it depends on the yoyo. Some yoyo’s are easier or harder to take apart. Is this on the Iyoyo passion?
What do you mean when the yoyos are not optimized?

They are talking about tolerance in machining, the better it is as I was talking about the easier it is to unscrew. The worst it is the more it will grab on.

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That’s exactly what happened. For whatever reason, could have been cross threaded, when I screwed back together it stripped and wouldn’t tighten. Took apart and noticed aluminum shavings and knew it was damaged. The longer axle seemed to work well, yet still tighten just fine. No gap as I’d expect there would be - to accommodate the spec c bearing. The half-spec is seated, the yoyo is fine.

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Yo I’m 90% sure you found this bc I told you and just wanna clarify. It’s not like the banging of them together that can have them untwist ime but accidental hand bumps that do it. I also noticed it happened much more when it was rainy out and humidity was super high. My theory is that my hands are clammier when conditions are like that so a hand bump against the rim is more likely to act like a break and cause untwisting. Probably wouldn’t happen if I wore gloves. Also happens occasionally in 1a but much less frequently than 3a. I made a meme about it before I even started 3a.

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Optimize meaning I clean and lube myself. Don’t rely on perfect off the shelf. Works well for me.

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Yeah, you made me want to try many different ways to see what happens. I found it from studying it because of you, I could get it to very very rarely happen with hands doing a lot of chopsticks sloppy but it was very uncommon. As I could clash them together at an odd angle and make them loosen decently often. It was for sure something I never would have tried if not for you. As I wanted to learn how to prevent it if possible in the future, I think blasted rims might be the way, along with a different machine shop that’s not as good lol but don’t know if the second option is worth it.

I would also note, that I could feel the slight difference so if I stopped after noticing it I could simply turn it slightly and they never come fully undone.

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I mean, they almost never come fully undone like completely untwist and fall apart. I just reach down and kill the yoyo if I hear it loosen. I imagine blasted rims would definitely help.

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I just grip both halves with my fingertips and tighten only using them, never palms/base of fingers.

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From an older topic on this…

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