So she took a knock off my wooden floor and it induced some pretty good pulse vibe. Anyone have a similar experience with theirs?
I can’t seem to get rid of it entirely. I’ve tried new axle, bearings. Flip, flip, nothing seems to help.
There seems to be a death grip on the bearing but just on one half (on the left). They’re ever so slightly different in weight. 31.45 (left) and 31.32 (right). Is that enough to throw things off? On the right side you can clearly see the bare AL.
The best I can seem to get it is by loosely seating the bearing and letting the two halves center the bearing while assembling. It’s still no where near where it was before the bang. What gives on a mono metal?
Take some sandpaper and on the left yoyo you can by hand rub it evenly around the bearing post until it’s raw and looks clean. It’ll fix the death grip, and normalize the weight a bit between the two halves which might help a bit with the vibe.
At this point i’d just learn to live with the vibe on it, it shouldn’t be pulse vibing but it’ll still have a bit of string vibe probably. I’m guessing the bearing post and potentially bearing seat on the right half just got a bit messed up from how tight the fit was, and a floor bonk + going at it after the fact with a bearing tool just kinda messed it up to the point of bigger vibe.
My Otter vibes unless I get the axle centered (you can do this by unscrewing one side a little and then tightening by screwing the other one until it’s smooth) - the bearing posts are completely raw now because they were so tight, and I think this is what caused it. I’ve learned to really appreciate brands that machine bearing seats properly.
The bearing seat is never generally the issue, it’s about post design, and the issue mostly arises with anodization, not machining, especially considering the tight fits are intentional (unfortunately).
Semantics, I would consider the post a part of the seat.
Companies know the yoyo will be anodized, like you said it’s an intentional choice of the designers, but it’s because they know they don’t have the machining tolerance for a vibe free yoyo with a bearing seat that doesn’t destroy itself over time.
Lol ok a bit overdramatic, but just saying I have a 9 year old Chief machined by Onedrop with a pristine bearing seat/post/whatever. I appreciate things that are made to last.
Before you do more destructive approaches please switch out the pads/make sure they are completely flush. Maybe you ripped them out slightly. My canopy had a similar issue where the pad got out slightly and started pulse vibing.
This is not a china issue its a companies wanting to ensure smooth yoyos. Onedrop yoyos are generally not as smooth. Buying onedrop you accept a certain level of vibe.
Im pretty sure there was a thread like this in the past talking about tolerances and the machine shops in both countries had similar tolerance capabilities.
Im not being disingenuous. Onedrop yoyos are not as smooth. I thought this was a normal well known fact. Their bearing seats are looser. Easy to unscrew and not strip away the ano when its a looser bearing seat. Thats how you can just take off the bearing with your fingers instead of needing a tool.
I love onedrop. 1/3 of my collection might be onedrop. I like that they have looser bearing seats and you are correct that the product is thus longer lasting. I like that. But this is not a machining capability result. This is just different decision making. Onedrop makes a quality product that vibes a little but will last you a great time and other companies make a product that might get damaged from unscrewing but are incredibly smooth. Just different things being valued here.
No point in continuing this discussion if you disagree on the base level point that onedrop yoyos are generally not as smooth as other ones from china.
Chances are the impact occurred at the right angle to warp the bearing seat a bit, causing the yoyo to become a bit crooked. Check to see if you can make out whether or not it looks like the inside race of the bearing had dug deeper into the bearing seat, causing the bearing to sit uneven when screwed together.
If it is bent, then you can try to bend it back into place with the yoyo assembled, and using a dial caliper to check the width at different points.
As for the tight bearing seat, apply a bit of bearing lube onto the post using a Q-tip before reassembly. Not sure why this is devolving into an argument about tight bearing seats, but this will help.
A bearing seat that is loose enough for the bearing to slip off but is also tight enough for the bearing to not rattle takes more precision than a bearing seat that is tight, since there’s more margin within the realm of tight.
Sure. I think tight and loose have similar tolerance margins though no? Too tight and the bearing doesnt fit at all and too loose and the bearing rattles. Someone more qualified might be able to answer that. I dunno. I feel point still stands that the companies are trying to do different things altogether.
With a tight fit, the harder steel is compressing the aluminum bearing seat to some degree. Think of how some bearing seats are very very tight while others are only a little bit tight, that depends on how much compression is occuring, that’s the margin.
