This is gonna be a thread with my mod work and I’ll update it whenever I do new stuff
Got the lathe yesterday, here it is unassembled-
assembled-
I decided to screw the switch in place, i’m gonna drill holes for the allen wrenches on the board tomorrow
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs044.snc4/34577_1242212195850_1845698020_478949_5180938_n.jpg
jaws cut-
THATS AWESOME!! I really have been wanting to get my hands on a lathe in the worst way.
Yeah i want one but im only 14 and if i had on i wouldnt have to pay mike to do it :p. lol but once i get a job im deff getting into modding
What sort of things have you machined on the lathe? Plastic, wood, metal, etc. And how precise was it?
Could you make a yoyo on it if you tried?
Landon Balk (of 3yo3) makes his acrylic yoyos by hand on a metal lathe so yes it is possible but VERY difficult
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have you tried satining? i need a good person to satin my 5star.
i can already satin no problem heres some of the stuff ive done-
rim satin genesis-
i also had a recrev no9 that i satined the anno off but i dont seem to have any pics
that sir is sick nasty
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I’m starting to get a bit frustrated, the jaws must not be cut right because nothing turns out in a perfect circle, its always off center. I shimmed the tools to center and lightly went over the jaws trying to fix it but that didnt work. I also noticed there isnt any sort of lock on the top slide and I wish there was. If any of you guys with a Taig know whats going on let me know, I’ll continue to try fixing it myself in the meantime.
Got the answer I was looking for, gonna try it out in the morning (thanks cyclontzy)
Are you tightening the jaws down on a washer (there should be one supplied with the chuck) when you go to cut the jaws?
If you need to lock down the cross slide you can tighten the setscrew on its side. Due to the nature of it being a leadscrew you should not need to ever lock to cross slide down. The setscrews are designed more for removing play in the cross slide.
If you are wanting to lock down the entire carriage, that is a different story. As seen in this picture of the bottom of the carriage, there are two setscrews (for removing play just like the ones on the cross slide) on either side of a wingnut.
http://www.cartertools.com/setup02.jpg
The wingnut can easily be tightened to lock the cross slide into place or loosened to resume normal movement of the carriage.
yea im chucking the washer
and i have been using the wing nut on the carriage. so i just need to tighten the gib all the way to lock the cross slide?
that is some darn nice satining. u think you can do my 5star? it also already has a moderate vibe to it. i heard sometimes satining can cause less vibe, or more if done wrong. pm me if you think you can satin it well.
Yes, you can use the gib screws to lock the cross slide. But why do you want to lock the cross slide down? The only thing (barring a part breaking) that can move the cross slide in the z axis is the leadscrew. The leadscrew can move the cross slide, but the cross slide cannot move the leadscrew.
for example when i cut a recess and go straight in i dont want it shifting, i tightened the gib just a tiny bit to snug it up and still let it move easily so its good now
As long as there isn’t play in the cross slide it won’t move unless you turn the handle. It seems that that was your problem, you had some slack in it. It’s good to see that you got that fixed.
forgot to update earlier so here is the update from this morning and afternoon
Got the problem with my jaws worked out (thanks cyclontzy), now i just need some stock zeros to work on
Just did these today, left is a hitman ring, right is a y factor ring (i left the irg lip on there), im gonna put them on zero hubs at some point in the future after i make each one a matching ring. Doing these kinda makes me wish I still had my Split Decision so I could make rims for it
i would love to try a fh0 with metal weight rings like a yyj. those look awesome.
made a new bearing tip for my Sidewinder, unfortunately the recess in the top is too big so ill just get a new top and put it in
I really didnt do any measuring, just did it by eye
here is the old tip-
bearing recess
http://hphotos-snc3.fbcdn.net/hs652.snc3/32207_1200884962695_1845698020_388880_8072109_n.jpg
and heres the new aluminum tip, I made it from scratch using an aluminum handle I had laying around
bearing post and groove for an o-ring cut, I also chamfered the top of the post so its easier to get the o-ring on
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs229.snc4/38804_1247707053218_1845698020_491932_7617356_n.jpg
since i dont have a compound slide i cut the taper by making steps in a rough cone shape and then smoothed it out by moving the carriage and cross slide at the same time to make the taper, then i sanded it to final shape. here is is with the bearing and o-ring. the groove is for the string rather than having 2 cones with a space in between
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc4/hs209.snc4/38804_1247707093219_1845698020_491933_5334135_n.jpg
here is the entire unit assembled, just need to get a new top to put it in
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash2/hs109.ash2/38804_1247707133220_1845698020_491934_2814055_n.jpg
i was just thinking about how the tip could be a spike so i grabbed a fhz and it fits pretty good, it would have to be threaded into one on the other side to work but still thought it was interesting