I never really put much stock in it early on. I progressed in the natural order initially. A bunch of plastics. Loved them all and didn’t think I needed a metal Yoyo at all. Then got my first metal and same thing happened, accumulated a collection of monometal, the same thing didn’t really happen with bimetals though I do own some now. Maybe about 10 total. I’m not super crazy about them and use them the least I think. HOWEVER, after watching a promo video for the bimetal civility from the other site we’ll just call them gotricks, they mention how it was designed to make learning new tricks easier, and the goal was for people to want to reach for it when learning something new specifically because it was high performing, long spinning, stable etc. for some reason this stuck with me and that’s what made me want to get a. Bimetal. I never actually needed a longer spinning Yoyo until recently when I started progressing a lot. Eventually I got that same Yoyo off the bst, and it’s actually the Yoyo I reach for now when learning a new trick when the Yoyo I’m using keeps dying out on me midway thru learning said trick. And I can attest to the fact that is in fact very great for this and serves this purpose well in my experience. So to answer ur question yes I do believe a higher performing more stable Yoyo is beneficial when learning new tricks. I also agree with what most others have already said, you probably don’t need at your current level if ur still in the semi early beginner stage. Most of the stuff ur learning right now can be done pretty well most monometal and good plastics. But if u want one , get one. I personally recommend going as long as u can without getting one for the simple reason that I believe it’s beneficial to spend more time getting used to and learning to truly appreciate a good monometal before u level up. But that’s just me
Reply to everyone else – I emphasize that I already have 5 decent unresponsive yoyos with which I’m learning and making progress. I’m not looking to add another $30 yoyo to my collection, at least not for now. The whole idea was whether or not a truly high end yoyo would be more forgiving with making mistakes. I feel that difference between my $15 yoyo and $35 yoyo, and so naturally I assumed that it may be the case between a $35 yoyo and a $100. And also, part of the motivation for considering a higher end yoyo, as I mentioned, is motivation. Seeing that high end yoyo each day may give me a boost of motivation to improve more and more. That, plus perhaps it might make the learning process easier with longer spin time and more stability. I appreciate everyone’s input. I’ll keep thinking about it and ultimately decide for myself. If I do get another yoyo, it will probably be a higher end one and not just another similar one to what I already have. The only question for me is if and when I’ll get it.
I bought a Turning Point Hades pretty early into my first year of unresponsive yoyoing because I thought the larger, heavier yoyo would spin longer and give me more time to learn tricks. It worked for me! I would say you should go for it.
There’s some great black Friday deals going on right now
I think yyf has two bimetal for under ,$100 still
In my reply, I mentioned I’ve used my Top Deck for learning, almost exclusively, for years. I paid $100 for it after only using a plastic unresponsive up until that point. It was absolutely worth it. I still think it performs noticeably better than anything else I’ve played, regardless of price point.
Short answer: get a Top Deck
I didn’t mean to imply that this was a regular thing, only that it’s possible so don’t discard the the possibility.
To answer your original question, as someone who’s played monometals and plastics/plastic bimetals for 14 years and only got my first bimetal this year, the difference is substantial. Higher-end, rim-weighted bimetals are more stable, spin longer, and are more forgiving in most scenarios than any of my other throws. They commit to a plane like horizontal far better than even my best monometals. I can get 2-3x the spin time of my monometals with my grasshopper GTX 2. I can do way more eli hops before tilting off axis with my Pheasant than I can with my monometals.
While I agree with the sentiment that learning fundamentals on them can lead to bad habits in execution, it sounds to me like you’ve already learned a lot of those fundamentals and this isn’t your first rodeo as it were. Do I still prefer the feel and play of monometals? Yes, but that’s because I’ve played them for half my life and I’ve literally grown up with them. If you want to try out a bimetal I’d say go for it! In my opinion they are worth the investment and are a really cool change from monometals and plastics, even though I love those throws as well. Hope it helps!
I don’t find that price point is a reliable indicator of performance.
At the truly higher end you are could be paying less for additional performance than for premium materials, premium finishes, yo-yos produced in smaller runs, niche designs (some of which may not be compatible with your particular goals) etc.
In the $100+ range there are plenty of all-around good performers, but I don’t think you can assume significantly better performance than what is currently available in the $60 range for bimetals or $40 range for monometals.
IMO they are fun to own and play, but I don’t expect a $100 to be 2x a $50 yo-yo in anything except price.
Edit to add: If you want to own a nicer yo-yo, I would recommend narrowing your requirements so you are buying a nicer version of something that you already know that you will like. There are some designs that generally will spin longer, offer more stability etc. but they may not be weights and shapes that you actually enjoy playing.
@bigstupidbees – Glad to hear that it worked for you. I’m leaning more and more towards making the purchase.
@sparhawk – I’ll check those out. One of the yoyos I’ve been eyeing is actually the YYF IQ.
@Shapapy – It seems that the Top Deck is out of stock everywhere. Nevertheless, aesthetics are also a part of my decision process and I tend to prefer the appearance of angular H-shaped bi-metals.
@Slestak75 – Indeed, that would be quite a nightmare if it was a regular thing haha. But you gave me some useful info about the bearing being damaged if it hits the floor, I didn’t think of that. That might be the reason that some of my yoyos don’t spin as long as they did when I first got them, as some have taken a whack or two against the floor.
@ Sgt1yoyo1 – That’s good to hear that your experience with a bi-metal has been a good one. I do know some fundamentals already, I can already do about 10+ unresponsive tricks fairly consistently, and I feel that the stability and spin-time of a bi-metal could be helpful as I continue my progress.
@hsb – I agree that price isn’t everything, which is why I’ve already been watching many reviews on youtube about various yoyos to hear what people have to say about them. I also read all the reviews posted about them as well. One of the yoyos I’m considering is the YYF IQ, which seems to have very good reviews all around. I also like the Edge Beyond, but it seems that the colors variations I’d like have all been sold out.
NOTE: I’m assuming you’re talking specifically about 1A play here.
First off, be aware though that higher cost does not equate to higher quality. That said, a higher quality, competition focused yoyo is easier to use for 1A play, plain and simple. To say otherwise is disingenuous. The reason competition players use them is because they’re designed to make their routines easier to perform consistently.
For learning purposes it really depends on what you want to accomplish. If you want to have an easier time learning new tricks and progressing, then something like the Miracle or Outlier 3 will definitely make your life considerably easier than using a Kim23 or Cheatcode. If, however, you want to master the basics and fundamentals before moving on to the showy stuff, you’d be better off using something less forgiving and automatic as a comp yoyo.
P.S: Bearing selection is a huge factor. Different bearing styles of differing quality are at least as important as yoyo design.
This is a good example. I have an IQ and I don’t have any complaints. But the YYF Knockout holds its own at half the price. These aren’t different price point versions of the same yo-yo though. I think a given player could prefer either.
Priced directly between both the IQ and Knockout is the iYoyo iCEBERG. That thing is like magic, right up there with the Miracle, and even surpasses it in some areas. For the cost, I personally think it’s unbeatable for 1A. The iCEBERG punches way, way above its price tag.
Shape matters yes. But to say that quality of the bearing is as important as the design is wild. Funny that this idea comes up over and over and over again. Here is a video of @JeiCheetah doing a 3 minute FS with some stock generic bearings 11 years ago.
In response to my 11 year old video. Here’s a new one. Didn’t quite make 3 minutes but it was about 2:32 which I’m happy with. Done on a stock 19 dollar Watieboo/fetusnice yoyo as it’s set up right out of the box, stock cheap Chinese bearing in all its glory.
Thanks
Í̷̧̛̗̻͙͔̉̂̆́͜͠͠ ̵̦̪͚̯͐̂͒̑̋̊T̸̞̪̯̳̪̻̙͖͔̟̒̍̕ ̴͓̜̙̜͚̥̪͇͉̦̾͌̔͛̌̏́̾͜S̷̼̹̞̅̑̏̔͑̎̿̋̑̔͌͘͝͝ ̴̧̙̦̰̤̏̑͆ ̶̡̧̳͙͔̄̒̃͑̾̂̀̏̍̉̕̚Ỉ̴̫̦̣̞͍̤̺̜̽͛̇͠ͅ ̸̲̪͈̫͔̠̈͋́̔̊̌͝ͅN̶͖̈́̊̊̉̚͝ ̷̺̣̭͒͛͊̐͊ ̶̨̺̭̹̳̟̼̺̫̥̮̎̾̓̽͝T̷̗̠̗͔̙̩̩̘̣̝͉͑͗̑̈̎̾͛͠ ̴̟̟̫̰͙̩̺̤̩͉͆̓̆͘̚͜H̵̨̡̛̛̳̘̝̞̪͙̗͚͕͉̀̅̊̄̽̑̏ ̵̪̬͓̟͈͒́̄̇̀̈̏͆͝E̷̡̧͙̩̥̩̮̬̠̳͋̄͋̏̿̎̅͘͜͠ ̶̠̋́̐͆̐̀͌̀̾̈́͆̽͘͠ ̵̨̻͚̤̣̫̦̻̘̻̺̈̂͆̾̍̔̆̚̕͜͠P̶̩͔͓̞͒ ̶̬̝̻̞̪̦̪͖̈́̕L̴̛̲̺̬̯̻̰̦͖̘̍̾͊̓͊̓̄͂͛̐͜͝ ̶̤̹͒̓̈͋́̓̇͆̀̀͝A̷̹̥͍̣̹͇͉̞͖̅̀̓̇́̉̿͝ ̵̧̦͎̗̺̖̲͙̞͇̞̄͆̔̌̆͒͑̐͒̃̚̕͘͜͝Ẏ̶̙̓̈̽ ̵͇̪͚̪̱̳̬̩͖̯̰͗̽̌͘Ę̷̧̱̲̰̳͎̲̰̺̦͚̦̉̒͑̑̕ ̸͍̗̼͈͔͓͔͉͒̋̆̾R̵̡̝̦͈̬͚͚̥̠̺͓̹̀́̀̀̂͘͜ ̵̨̖͖̟̣̲̙̦̻̦͎͋̈́ͅ
As long as your bearing isnt defective (or a flat bearing lol) it shouldnt significantly affect your play
Could it be that all of my bearings are defective? I’m a big guy and I can do a hard throw with the yoyo, and I’m quite sure that my throwing technique is pretty good, and yet none of my yoyos can really get even past 1 minute just purely on a throw without doing any tricks, let alone if I start doing tricks. Granted, when I first got them they spun a bit longer, but even then, I’d be surprised if they’d get over 2 minutes of spin time.
That’s pretty amazing. I don’t know how your yoyo does it, none of mine can even really break a minute. They spun a bit longer straight out of the box, but even then I’d be surprised if they’d gotten over 2 minutes (though I didn’t really time them then).
The iCEBERG has been in my sights as well, though I’m leaning more towards a full bi-metal.
Yes, 1A. I think I’m ages away from being able to do 3A, 4A, or 5A, and am not really into 2A.
I also feel that bearings should be a significant factor, at least for the long run. I think that out of the box most bearings will do fairly well, but the question is how long will that quality last.
As for my goal, it’s essentially to have a more fun time learning, with less frustrations. I’m perfectly fine with using the crutch that a better yoyo affords, and perhaps eventually work my way down to being able to do those same tricks on cheaper yoyos – rather than the other way around, which, I think is a more frustrating route. It’s like saying that someone who wants to learn typing should start out on a manual typewriter and only then switch to using a computer keyboard. A big part of advancing technology is the convenience it affords us, which I think includes yoyos as well.
As someone who has tried a mazal top hybrid bearing before, it was just really loud and became responsive the day i got it.