Hi, Revolution626. Thanks for the question. I use a manually operated minilathe to make all the yoyos that I shared in this thread. In case you want to see my minilathe, here’s the photo.
I mentioned in one of my previous replies that I was making a bigger size HTYY#0.40, the 6061. Well, I didn’t make one but three. Let me share with you HTYY#0.40-0.43, SML+D. SML refer to 3 full aluminum yoyo with identical profile but different size: small, medium and large. And the D refers to a delrin yoyo with identical profile as the L.
I like the 6061. It is smooth and comfortable. Its profile is friendly to my little lathe. And, most importantly, I want to know how does it play if I increase the size. So I made a full size 6061. I completed the full size 6061, and thought I should make a medium size 6061 to complete the size range. Having completed the medium size 6061, I thought I have learned a new process in making yoyo, why not a delrin version? So, finally, a delrin version of the full size 6061. Here are the specifications:
HTYY#0.40, the 6061 (size S)
Diameter = 50 mm
Width = 42.5 mm
Gap = 4.5 mm
Weight = 64.7 g
HTYY#0.42, the 6061 (size M)
Diameter = 53 mm
Width = 42.5 mm
Gap = 4.5 mm
Weight = 64.6 g
HTYY#0.41, the 6061 (size L)
Diameter = 56 mm
Width = 43.5 mm
Gap = 4.5 mm
Weight = 66.7 g
HTYY#0.43, the delrin 6061 (size L)
Diameter = 56 mm
Width = 43 mm
Gap = 4.5 mm
Weight = 73 g
The three Al 6061 play differently but similar (what a nonsense, lol). They play differently due to their differences in size and weight. But they feel similar to me as they share a same profile. Among the three, I like the size M most. Making full aluminum yoyo is much more difficult than making a delrin one as aluminum has a greater hardness. But, IMO, due to the same reason, I can maintain my level of accuracy much better, hence, an almost vibe-free yoyo (with some tuning ). The 6061 size S and M are almost vibe-free, but the L has a noticeable vibe due to some mistakes that I made during the process.
I encountered some technical problems while making the SML, but I managed to overcome them with some adjustments to my cutting process and a special tool that I made. I would like to have a quick test on these new processes and the tool on delrin, so I made the delrin 6061. However, I encountered a new issue and failed to handle it well, so the delrin 6061 has a noticeable vibe. I also miss calculated its weight. I expected it to weigh around 68g instead of 73g. Fortunately, it still play good despite of it overweight and vibe.
I am happy with the outcome. I have made some full aluminum yoyo and I like how they play. I have got some new ideas in making yoyo. I also experienced the hardship of making aluminum yoyo compares to delrin ones. Conclusion, it is a good journey for me, but I don’t think I will revisit it in near future. Thanks for reading my post and your comment is most welcome.
Making identical parts on a manual lathe isn’t all that hard. You just have to think about how to set up the lathe to replicate a certain cut. The other thing that I’ll do a lot is set up my machine for a certain cut, do that cut for all my halves, and then set up for the next cut. Then the trick is setting up the parts on the chuck so that each cut is concentric with the last.
Curves are trickier, but doable. For small things like rounding a corner, you can usually just eyeball it and it will be good enough.
As I mentioned in my last reply, I discovered some new approaches in making yoyo, especially a near vibe-free yoyo. I wanted to tried them out, not using aluminum, but delrin, with a simple design. I based my design upon the Duncan FHZ. Hence, the HTYY#0.44. It is a all delrin with a shape profile of FHZ. When I say it’s a all delrin yoyo, it means that the yoyo halves are made of delrin only, including the axle hubs. I will talk about that later.
The reason why I made the yoyo halves from delrin only is to reduce machining steps, hence, ensuring minimum human and machine errors. I have also avoided press fitting aluminum axle hub for the same reason. The results are fantastic. This is the smoothest delrin yoyo that I have ever made. With some minor tuning, I can reduce the vibe to a very minimum level. One major issue with this delrin axle hub is the durability of the threaded hole. The halves can be screwed tightly, but I have to be very careful to avoid stripping them due to over tightening. Unlike aluminum axle hubs which I can feel the tightness while screwing the halves; with delrin axle hubs, I can still twist the halves (with greater force) even they are screwed tightly. In term of play characteristic, I can say it is almost similar to my modded FHZ, with slightly higher stability, and slightly more comfortable when holding it.
Once again, I am happy with the outcomes. Hope to hear what you think about it. Thanks.
The bearing seat system reminds me of the og Bapezilla
(Ignore the acryllic yoyo in the pic above)
I was going to suggest trying a thicker(probably 1/4inch thick) axle like the gung-fu because the threads are thicker, it might make the yoyo harder to strip and may be more stable. And since the axle acts as the inner bearing seat post it will reduce your amount of cuts to make.
Nice work as usual… Keep it up
Btw, have you ever considered dying any of your white delrin throws? They would look really cool.
I don’t know how I have never seen this thread before. I’ve looked through the whole thread and am very impressed. I love delrin yoyos, and yours are some of the best looking I’ve seen. Keep up the good work!
). The 6061 size S and M are almost vibe-free, but the L has a noticeable vibe due to some mistakes that I made during the process.
