Glow In The Dark FHZ!


#1

Alright guys, so I go to a lot of shows at bars and do lots of things at night and in dark places in general so I decided it was time for a GITD yoyo. I needed one that was going to play well and that was also going to be just plain awesome.

Well…that’s a good place to start!

First off, let’s get those caps off.

Good now what?

F all that noise…It’s silicone time!

Mmmmmmdone! (Little known fact: if you stare at an FHZ just the right way, the pads will actually fly off and silicone grooves will appear - kinda like parting the red sea :p)

Coat number one going on!

And skip to after three coats:



Those last two are more representative of what it actually looks like in the dark.

And here’s one in daylight:

The GITD paint is luckily quite light and only adds about 1g to the yoyo even after three coats! It’s 65.9g instead of the usual slightly below 65g of an FHZ that’s been siliconed.

It plays great and looks absolutely amazing in the dark! Wish I could video it…but all I’ve got is this point and shoot and it doesn’t like GITD video footage…

And for anyone that wants to do this themselves…Glow Inc!

Seriously an awesome place for glow powder/paint. I used V10 Water Based Glow Paint as it glows the brightest and longest, but there are other colors too if you’re interested.

So many possibilities!!!

Questions? Comments? Concerns? …Complaints? (those can go in the recycle bin)


#2

Nice!


#3

Did you know there is an LED FHZ coming out soon? I’m waiting to get my hands on one and then immediately send it to a modder for silicone recessing and shmoove rings before I even crack the package.


#4

studio42’s shortest post, i think.

Yeah, an LED FHZ would be fun but its still fun doing your own stuff :slight_smile:


#5

i would have done a glow splash


#6

Not for me. I’m not good at stuff like yoyo mods and don’t want to take the time to learn. Soldering and repairing cables, yes. Handy with a drill and carving/cutting tools? No. I did have to widen some holes in some plastic plumbing strap to make a safety cage for a transformer in an amplifier I have for an active subwoofer I own. The 10kg transformer can sometimes break the weld holding it to the mounting plate(this issue has been fixed by using a bolt and a second plate on top), causing it to possibly damage other components. I had one break off, and so I used a glue to re-connect it and made one of these cages to ensure if it does come loose, it won’t be able to break anything. The one that broke off didn’t damage anything, so I got lucky. What started this whole thing was the OTHER one, the unit wasn’t powering up due to a bad amplifier board. That transformer was fine, but I made a cage anyways just ensure no problems down the line. Some Lok-Tite and a socket driver and widening some holds just a little was all it took.

BTW, not a shortest post, but it’s up there.


#7

This will be good news for you then, the FHZs with the LEDs come with a pad recess.


#8

Thank goodness. Now I just need for them to come out for sale!


#9

very cool. ;D


(WildCat23) #10

I think Duncan should get rid of the friction stickers and upgrade all there plastics (And metals) to SG pads.


#11

That’s a good idea but there are a lot of beginners out there. They probably won’t know how to bind. They could,however, offer the option of a recessed yo.


(WildCat23) #12

Oh should I mention the a bearings are annoying to maintain…