The error I made was probably on not put it inside the recess with a syringe as I used to do (I was just very curious to try it) and then I used the credit card but didn’t smooth out properly cause the application was bad fore sure.
I will try again when I receive the syringe (I had to order them from amazon as in Uk seems impossible to buy a syringe without people looking at you like a criminal)
The way I’ve been doing it is to get the recess full then I actually use my finger and just for all the way around. Wipe off the excess. It’s messy but it’s turning out nice
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It eventually smooth out a little bit playing it around 4/5 hours but I think I will do it in another yoyo just to go back on track with siliconing, I have been lazy for long using the standard pads but the response of the silicone is the best for me.
Today I will receive the syringe and do it on a Yoyofactory R-type that I use a lot
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Nice! I need to do more too
If there are two things I have in modern yoyo it’s OD 10-Ball Flats, and Snow Tires. Which is a bummer because I love OD and CLYW, lol. Just flowed some clear permatex into my mostly-new Manatee. We’ll see tomorrow how I did but it looks pretty good right now!
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Thank you, that’s flowable in the picture (monkey snot) its way easier to work with, you should get better results with the syringe. Dylan has some good tips here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HmHcUK1hGNc
And this is exactly how I do the monkey snot https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYIFX85QTwE
Lookin’ good
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Thanks! After a brief cleanup of the bearing seat, this Manatee is like a whole new yoyo! Why TF would anyone ever use snow tires?
They make throws and binds feel good. I’m not sure if you’re bothered by flush response pads or 21mm response, if you flow silicone into a 21mm response groove you’re still getting the feel of 21mm response. If you’re conflating snow tires as just being a smaller than normal gap width, then yeah a silicone recess will give you a wider gap.
I’ve siliconed almost all of my 19mm response size yoyos but I’ve left my CLYWs alone because I like how snow tires feel.
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Yeah I figured that was the answer, and to each their own! I’ve said it before and I’ll say it again; give me slippy or give me death. I’d rather bind 6 times on purpose than once on accident haha.
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When you smooth it, whether it is a card or your finger or whatever, dip it in water first and be generous. This makes a world of a difference. I learned this from Dylan Kowalski. On a side note, the flow-able silicone is what I use, it’s the best, it’s so easy to take out, too, and replace. That red RTV can be a nightmare to get out, a whole hassle. Flowable self levels, too.
That’s not that bad though bro, the string will smooth it out eventually, anyways. Glad to see all you still siliconing, I love it. When you’re done with the tip put two tooth picks in the bottom, and set it up-right and you can just pull the toothpicks next time and remove the silicone from the tip easier. Also stand up your tubes, this makes a huge difference. (learned from Jake G2 who has the best tutorial for flowable on youtube hands down)
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That’s why I love flowable it’s softer and I can under-fill, too.
# Ghost binds are not in the spirit of Halloween
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Hell of a necro😂 id hope after three years they’ve figured it out
I like when necroes are for helpful reasons
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What are the differences between Ultra Grey and Red Gasket Maker?
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From what I gathered from some dude on youtube grey is for heat and vibration applications where as red is even more heat resistance and some oil resistance. I guess grey is a step under red. Hoping it will be easier to remove later. Edit: grey high torque and red for high heat
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If memory recalls red is a bit more responsive than grey, and clear/flowable is more responsive than red.
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