Oh you mean the axle screw itself is not “halfway” inside each half?
As I recall, at one time Mr Difeo suggested that I start the axle in one half, just enough to engage the threads and then start the other half just, enough to engage the threads and then to pull the halves away from each other as I tightened the yoyo. Works every time for me.
Point of clarity for accuracy in discussing this stuff:
Bearing Post and Bearing Seat are two different things. The post is the part that goes inside the inner diameter of the bearing. The seat is the part the comes into contact with the outside face of the inner race of the bearing.
The issues with vibe and stuck bearings are all to do with the bearing POST, not the seat.
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On that, those old fat axle Dif-E-Yos and Anti-Yos didn’t have a bearing post. The fat axle itself was the post. That’s why those required assorted incantations to make smooth.
tl;dr, David is right about the post. There’s a bunch of weird axle moving ritual left over from when axles were bearing posts.
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I edited my post to reflect this. Thanks for the clarification 
Correct.
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I get that but in my mind I always kind of lump them together. I mean they are adjacent to each other. When I think of “seat” I think of what the bearing is “seated” on, which is kind of both the post and the seat.
But I understand to have a discussion involving designing or refining a design of a yo-yo those terms would need to be used properly.
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I have/had a number of Di-e-yo, Anti-Yo, SPYY, HSPIN and other yoyos with floating axles and really never had an issue with vibe after taking them apart. I also remember the tuning posts mentioned above. The first dealt primarily with injection molded plastic yoyos of that era, specifically the buzz-on and duncan yoyos with hex bolt axles. Injection molded yoyos can be prone to some vibe due to the variations in the mold process. On the other hand, never really noticed a problem with the YYJ models. The gap adjustment on the older models precluded any tuning as described in the tuning posts noted above in any event. As I mentioned previously, never had problems with the aluminum, so the second posted topic on tuning didn’t apply to anything I had.
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I’ve unscrewed most of my yoyos, usually to swap or clean a bearing. There have been instances where I’ve introduced a touch of fingernail vibe, and there have been instances where it’s actually been a touch smoother than before. Usually it’s just about the same as when I unscrewed it unless I switched the bearing, in which case it’s again been sometimes a touch less smooth and sometimes more.
I’m of the opinion that you should be able to take your yoyo apart without “screwing it up” since eventually you’re gonna have to in order to clean a bearing or replace a pad. So IMO yoyos should be designed around that reality. And in my experience, most seem to be. Obviously you get a lot more diligent hand tuning from more boutique companies but then again, those tend to be smaller quality-obsessed companies like G2 that’ll b-grade a throw at the drop of a hat.
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Since modern yoyo’s are comparatively vibration-free cf. older throws are people now highly sensitive to any slight vibe which gives rise to these questions? I unscrew without giving it a thought and never have had problems.
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