For sake of simplicity, I would just do a model of the bearing seat and response pad, give yourself about .5 mm extra diameter than the pads and about .5mm thick at the narrowest point. Print that should take about 30mins or so. Measure and compare to a bearing seat that you like, adjust the model and print again. Rinse, lather, repeat until the bearing seat and pads have the correct dimensions.
I had someone request some help creating technical drawings for yo-yos for a machine shop so I made this video. Posting it here in case it helps anyone else out.
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Does anyone have a cad cross section of a freehand capped (or really any capped) aluminum design?
I cannot get my brain wrapped around the whole fit situation for it.
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The aluminum freehands use the same caps as the plastic ones. I’ve made cad files for plastic fhs if that helps
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To clarify, not the caps, but the yoyo half. Like is it literally just a lip, or are we having to angle the aluminum lip a little to like hold the cap?
I actually decided after this, because I hate normal freehand cap yoyos (looking at you aluminum peakhand) because it’s always super hard to remove the caps, I’m gonna design an o-ring mount system for the caps so they fit snug but are removable without resorting to dynamite.
I’ll post up the sketches once I finish in case anyone has thoughts!
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The plastic ones use a flat interface on both the rim and the cap. The cap itself is a bit oversized to keep it in place unless you a precise charge of dynamite to remove it.
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Okay this uses a standard Dash 032 o-ring. I added a groove to my cap design but I believe these would fit normal caps perfectly fine too.
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Making that undercut for the oring will suck, but at least the oring won’t roll when you try to put the cap in. Definitely seems like a cool idea and you’re headed in the right direction.
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Yeah I had to redraw it at least 4 times before I found one that was at least technically possible to cut haha.
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Took me a while to realise this is the Waffle Stomper with a drain cap. Fantastic!
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The interface for the cap doesn’t need to account for the thickness of the cap. The Asora (based on the Free Rider cap interface) has more than half of the thickness of the cap exposed so you can use your fingernails or whatever to pry them up.
Asora only has .85mm of depth interface with the cap and that’s enough for a secure fit. Obviously the tolerances on caps themselves can vary a little bit though, and this isn’t the type of fit you’d want to use if you wanted to make sure the caps absolutely stay on the yoyo after being chucked into concrete or something.
The outer cut is an aesthetic choice, but you don’t need more than this to hold 48mm caps in place.
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Thank you! This explains why the Asora is the only capped yo-yo I love. Very informative, I really appreciate it.
Critical design note add a through-hole somewhere (either through the yoyo halves or the cap) so it can be removed.
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This looks great
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