Yeah idk with my first I was like 2 weeks is all I need. After that I realized take as much time I could take without impacting finances or job security. Last kid I took 6 weeks which I’m blessed I was able to do because not all of that was paid and I’m blessed I could both afford that and that most of it was paid.
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Might just be the cup solved. Insert failure may end up being the most annoying challenge over time.
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How should I handle the serial number distribution?
- Just send them out in the order of… well… orders!
- Randomize a bit. Mark them, install pads, don’t keep track past that.
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I’m planning to hold units #0001 and probably 2 others back. I’ll probably eventually let ̶2̶ ̶a̶n̶d̶ ̶3̶ the other 2 go, but posterity demands I keep #0001 at the very least.
Should I include “flaw forms?”
- Yes
- No
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Essentially the question here is whether or not I should include a card with each unit that details where it’s deficient compared to what I’d consider “perfect.” Info like mass deviation, unexpected hand work, explanation of what it taught me, etc
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As long as get #22! 
I Answered “Yes” but mainly because I want to know what makes my unit different it makes it more personal hehe.
Also, congrats on your first kid!
Greatest happiness and stress all in a small, lovely package
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Man if we can request numbers, dibs on #13. If not, rats.
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I think a random serial number and stat card with details on flaws gives the throw personality and story. Heck name them. I have a no jive I got from ED named Valerie and that extra bit of detail and story I cherish a whole bunch.
Whatever your comfortable with but seriously I’m all for more info if you have the bandwidth for it
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Well I didn’t expect to go down because I need to run wiring, but here we go I guess. After 2 years in our space, we are finally at the point of properly putting power in at the shop. I’ve been working in here so long with extension cords it’s insane, so it’ll be SO NICE to be able to just plug the machines into stable power.
Crossing fingers that I’ll be back to machining on Monday, in the meantime here’s a quick shop tour.
Don’t mind the mess.
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Can you size it down to the size of an ace?
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I mean scaling it wouldn’t be all that hard. Question is whether or not that would that be something people would really want.
Might be something fun to play with in the future, but not for the moment.
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Yes and yes. Undersize is awesome but also lets stick to the mission
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I love this.
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Wire is heavy.
That’s all the central column wire pulled except for the 480V stuff. Luckily I don’t need to worry about 480 until the 5 axis gets in.
We need to wait until tomorrow for a particular crimp connector to get in so we can wire the boxes properly 
Means we won’t swap panels until tomorrow at the earliest, though, so I’m back to machining tonight. Hopefully I’ll get a couple more units finished
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Love that you’re showing the challenges in the shop as they happen. Reminds me of my days working in IT at a truck company. I would visit the shop to hear about what’s broken and commiserate about everything that’s broken that there is no budget to fix that year.
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Crazy bit is that I’ve only filled down to where I’m pointing here. Just this one run.
We’ve got a LOT more to go. The wire needs to go all the way around the shop’s perimeter.
I believe we have refill spools available for when these are empty.
For the moment I’m just working switch boxes so that we can keep the machines online as we pull everything else. We are moving the server in, and the current panel isn’t big enough. We need to swap to the larger panel, and so we are working on making that a momentary switch instead of a weeks long ordeal.
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@AtomicChessGuy The thickness varies from point to point, there’s some places in there that get pretty thin, but the bulk of the hub seems to be strong enough. I’m not exactly sure where the limits of the geometry are, tbh
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Dude!! That’s so thin! Wow. Man so most modern yo-yos could be way better if the manufacturers or companies were willing to go thinner.
Do you think this would change if it were a bimetal? Would the walls have to be thicker in some places? Maybe at the press fit area?
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I mean keep in mind that this was designed to be 6/4 Ti and that .5mm wall Ti isn’t that uncommon. The fact that a 7075 dummy tester worked out so well is a massive bonus, but it’s not what I set out to do. I’m still not entirely sure what keeps it so strong in the wall at that thin a cross section, but another couple experimental designs using 6061 and 7075 had promising results.
The only thing that would really need to support a ring would be the rim itself. Think of it as a self-contained ring. Cut the walls of the cup out completely and just leave the mating surfaces for a ring and it’ll be the same.
This is a good point here, I think. You’d have to be somewhat cautious about how you approach the fit. Thin walls that are too weak to support the force of assembly would be pretty bad. I would prefer to use a shrink fit, myself. Bypasses the issue entirely. Definitely something I’ll play with in the future.
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